Monday, April 18, 2016

Seville


 
We arrived in Seville about 9 AM Thursday morning.  Seville is the 4th largest city in Spain and capital of the province of Andalusia.  It is located 50 miles from the Atlantic Ocean on the River Guadalquivir, making it the only river port in Spain.

Seville is approximately 2,200 years old.  The various civilizations throughout its history have left the city with a distinct personality, and a large, well-preserved historical center.  The mythological founder of the city is Hercules, who the myth says sailed through the Strait of Gibraltar to the Atlantic, and founded trading posts at the current sites of Cádiz and of Seville.

Seville was founded as the Roman city of Hispalis, although its origin dates back to the time of the Phoenicians.   Two of the Roman emperors, Trajan and Hadrian, were born in Seville.  The walls surrounding the city were originally built during the rule of Julius Caesar, but their current course and design were the result of Moorish reconstructions.

In 712 AD Seville was conquered by the Moors (Muslims from North Africa and remained under Moorish rule until 1248 when Ferdinand III conquered the Moors and Seville became part of the Christian Kingdom of Castile.  After the discovery of the Americas, Seville became one of the economic centers of the Spanish Empire as its port monopolized the trans-oceanic trade.  Ferdinand Magellan departed from Seville for the first circumnavigation of the Earth in 1519.

After arriving at the port, we went on a bus tour of Seville seeing the pavilions of the different countries that participated in the1929 Expo for the Spanish colonies.  These beautiful buildings are now used by the local government and universities.  We then stopped at the largest pavilion – the Pavilion of Spain which today houses government offices.  It was built in a semi-circle with sections depicting each province and/or major city of Spain.  All along the walkway vendors were selling Spanish fans and castanets.

This is a misnomer as all he Jewish synagogues were converted to churches and the Jewish quarter’s land and shops were appropriated by the church during the 1391 Pogrom.  Many of the Jewish residences of Seville were killed, and those that were not were forced to convert.  Today the Jewish quarter consists mainly of little shops.  Along one boundary of the Jewish quarter are the walls of the Alcázar Palace, still in use today by the Royal family.

Our final stop on the walking tour was the Cathedral of Seville, the 3rd largest cathedral in the world after St Peter’s in Vatican City and St. John’s in London.  It was built where there used to be a mosque.  The only remnants of the mosque is the tower that is part of the cathedral.   It is beautiful inside with many little chapels and the main alter decorated in gold and silver leaf.  Although many weddings take place in the Cathedral, only royalty can be married in the main alter.  It also has a choir stall of mahogany and marble with twin organs on either side.  One of the most important features of the Cathedral is the tomb of Christopher Columbus.

We had lunch in an old convent that had been converted into a restaurant.

Every year, two weeks after Holy Week, Seville holds the Feria de Abril (April Fair).  This is a 12-day long party of drink, food and dance which takes place day and night in more than a thousand especially mounted tents.  Most of the tents are owned by wealthy Sevillians and are there for their family and invited guests.  For this occasion, the women and girls (and even the female babies) dress up in their finest (and fanciest) Flamenco dresses (with flowers in their hair).  Many families arrive in their horse-drawn carriages while other men parade on their fine horses.  There is a lot of dancing in the tents.

We were especially lucky that this festival fell during the time we were in Seville, so our guides made arrangements to take us there.  With Rita leading the way, we wandered around the area, oohing and aahing at all the beautiful dresses.  At one tent Rita struck up a conversation with two of the owners (it was an association of 28 families that owned this tent).  As a result we were invited in and given a drink of Manzanilla, a unique wine produced in this area.  Manzanilla is a pale, very dry sherry that is only grown and produced around Sanlucar de Barrameda which is located on the left bank at the mouth of the Guadalquivir River.

It was a wonderful new discovery.  As one of our travelers said: “It was the Kentucky Derby, Mardi Gras, and New Year’s Eve all rolled into one.  This year we were the only OAT/Grand Circle tour to be able to see this unique Fair. As we were leaving about 5 PM, people were still streaming in and Rita said the partying would go on until late in the evening.

Back on board the ship, we had our port talk on Gibraltar, dinner, and then early to bed.

 

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