Reluctantly we
struggled out of bed at 5:15 AM to finish packing and leave for the
airport. (Note to self – we are not 25
anymore and cannot spend the evening drinking wine!) Check in at the Lisbon airport was very
easy. TAP Portugal Airlines has a section
just for premium passengers and we were the only ones in line. After passing through security, we went to
the Lounge for some much needed coffee.
Our flight left at 8:25 and took about 1 ½ hours to reach Malaga. It was
not my favorite flight – it was an ATR turboprop. The seats were not very comfortable and did
not recline. Most of the flight was
smooth, but on landing we had to fly through some dark clouds and it was quite
bumpy. When the wheels touched down, I was finally able to let go of Bill’s arm
– he probably had no feeling in it as I was really holding on tight.
From the airport, we
took a taxi to our hotel, the AC Marriott.
We really lucked out on location – the hotel was right off the main
waterfront street, in the center of the pedestrian walkways, next to the Malaga
Cathedral, and only a short 2-block walk to our ship. Malaga is a beautiful
city on the Mediterranean Coast of Spain (Costa del Sol region). It is the 5th
largest city in Spain, but the third oldest city in Europe. It is very pedestrian friendly; most of the
small, marble-paved streets in the center of town are free of vehicles (only
taxis and the few cars of people who actually live in the center are
allowed).
In the afternoon we walked around the center of
Malaga. We visited the Malaga
Cathedral. Malaga´s cathedral was built between 1528 and 1782 on or
near the site of a former mosque. While original plans called for two towers,
only one tower was completed. There are
two stories about why the second tower was left unfinished. The most prevalent was that during the
American Revolution, the British were enemies of Spain and therefore Spain sided
with the colonists. The Spanish Governor
of the Louisiana Territory, Bernardo de Galvez, was friends with the Bishop of
Malaga. He asked the Bishop for funds to
help Spain in this endeavor. The Bishop
supposedly sent funds that were originally destined for completing the second
tower. There is a plaque at the base of
the tower that states the funds for completing this tower were sent instead to
help the American colonies defeat the British.
According to our guide, the people of Malaga celebrate the 4th
of July to commemorate Galvez’s efforts on behave of the American
colonists. The second story says that
the money was diverted for use in the renovation of the roadway called the
"Way of Antequera" (which began in the present street Calle
Martinez Maldonado). The missing
tower has led to the Cathedral being popularly known as La Manquita (the
one-armed lady)
The outside façade
is in Baroque style, while the interior has influences of the Renaissance and baroque styles. It is stunning
inside with many little chapels and a 17th century choir stall of mahogany and
cedarwood which was designed by Luis Ortiz.
There are twin organs, one on each side of the choir stalls. It reminded us of the Cathedral in Segovia,
Spain.
We then walked to the
entrance to the Alcazaba, an old Moorish fortress, built on the hillside in the
11th century. At the top of
the hill is the Castillo de Gibralfaro, built by Abdar-Rahman I (a Cordoban
emir) in the 8th century. We
did not go in as all that remains of the fortress and castle are the walls, and
we had a good view of them from the 15th floor sun deck of our
hotel.
In front of the Alcazaba
entrance is the excavation of an old Roman theater. It is the oldest monument in Málaga and one
of the oldest Roman theaters on the Iberian Peninsula. It covers a large area,
roughly the size of a football field. The
theatre was built in the first century BC, under Emperor Augustus, and was used
until the third century AD. Subsequently
it was left to ruin for centuries, until the Moors settled in Andalucía. From
756-780AD the amphitheater was used as a quarry by the Moorish settlers who
used many of the stones to build the Alcazaba. Over time it became buried under dirt and
rubble, and remained hidden there for almost five centuries. The theatre was rediscovered in 1951, when
the construction of Casa de Cultura (a garden) gave the first archaeological
clues. The garden was then demolished
and work began on the excavation and restoration of the theater.
After viewing the
ruins, we walked down the beautiful, narrow pedestrian walkways and through a
botanical garden until we reached the water front. The pier area where our ship will dock
tomorrow is a beautiful pedestrian street lined with many palm trees.
For dinner we asked the
hotel concierge where to find good paella and he recommended Los Mellizos,
located a block from the hotel. Although
it was about 7 PM when we got there, that is still early by Spanish
standards. We ordered the seafood paella
and where not disappointed – it was loaded with a lot of seafood and was very
good. We then headed back to the hotel
for our last night before boarding our ship.
Wednesday morning
(April 13th) we checked out of our room and walked to the pier
area. Although there were people waiting
to take our luggage, we could not board the ship until 12:45. So we found a nice little café along the
waterfront and enjoyed a glass of wine and the beautiful weather.
At 1PM we boarded the
Corinthian and spent the rest of the day unpacking and getting settled in. We met Rita our guide (she is from Lisbon,
Portugal, speaks excellent English and seems quite knowledgeable about our
itinerary).
At dinner on board that
ship we met 3 couples from our group (the Blue Tribe). We had sat down at a table (it is open
seating), and the people that joined us were all from the Blue Tribe. We had a good time getting acquainted and
before we knew it, it was time for bed.
Thursday was our first
full day on the ship. We were still
docked in Malaga and in the morning we had our first city walk with Rita and a
local guide. Unfortunately we did not
see anything different than we had seen the day before. In the afternoon, our guide took us to the
Picasso Museum. Picasso was born in
Malaga and lived there until his parents moved to a city up in the northern
part of Spain. When Franco became
dictator of Spain, Picasso (who did not get along with Franco) moved to France
where he spent his remaining years. The
museum was okay, but neither Bill nor I are art lovers, and Picasso is certainly
not one of our favorite artists. The
fascinating thing about the museum was the basement level. The building was built over old Phoenician
and Roman ruins that were left just as they had been found.
Our ship sailed at 4 PM
that afternoon for Seville. We will
travel all night and arrive in Seville about 9 AM. Just as we were finishing dinner, the Captain
announced that we were traversing the Gibraltar Straits and the Rock of
Gibraltar was on our starboard side.
Tonight was a little rough going through the Straits and out into the
Atlantic, but we both managed to get a good night’s sleep. Must have been all that walking we did during
the day and the wine we consumed at dinner.
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