Friday, June 21, 2024

21 June 2024 Our Dublin Arrival and the Book of Kells

 

21 June 2024              Our Dublin Arrival and the Book of Kells

As we begin our exploration of Ireland, one of the things I am excited about is Irish cuisine.  I love Shepherd’s Pie and Fish and Chips.  Beer is not to my liking, but a good Jameson Whiskey goes great in Irish coffee!  Did you ever wonder how the lowly potato (or pratai as they are called in Ireland) became so synonymous with Ireland, especially since potatoes are not native to Ireland.  They were first brought to Ireland around 1590 by Spanish explorers from South America. 

But the potatoes took to Ireland’s cool, damp soil and were quickly accepted by the many low-income, subsistence farmers.  Over the years, these farmers could produce up to 12 tons of potatoes per acre.  As the years progressed, and the English rulers began to take away the land of those “pesky” Irish Catholics and selling it to wealthy English Protestants, potatoes became a means for the Irish to feed their families.  With little land to work with, potatoes were a very prolific vegetable.  By the early 1800s, nearly have of Irelands population was eating nothing but potatoes.

Then came the potato famine of 1845-1849.  With no means to provide for their families, many Irishmen had either died or emigrated away from Ireland.  It took Ireland until the 1980s to get back on their feet economically.  To its credit, it has one of the lowest poverty rates in Europe.  And despite their economic growth, the Irish have never lost their love for and taste of the lowly potato that sustained them through generations of hardships.  So just about every restaurant you go to will have several dishes that feature potatoes.  I cannot wait to try some great Irish cuisine.

Now to begin our exploration of Dublin.  We arrived in Dublin about 7:30 in the morning after bouncing our way across the Atlantic.  Although the plane was flying through some turbulent weather, I was able to get about 5 hours of sleep (thanks to my Lunesta sleeping pill) and even slept through the breakfast the flight attendants provided.  After clearing customs we found our taxi driver who took us to our hotel in Dublin – The Temple Bar Inn.  The weather was overcast, but not raining and the temperature was in the mid 60’s.  As our room was not yet ready, we took a little nap on the sofas in the reception area.  By 10 am they had our rooms, so we just continued our nap up on our beds – after being careful to set my phone alarm for 12:30 as we did not want to miss our reservation for the Book of Kells.

Old Parliament Building
After getting directions from the front desk, we set out on our first adventure in Dublin.  Our hotel is located very close to Trinity College where the Book of Kells is kept.  As we still had time before our reservation, we decided to visit the statue of Molly Malone.  As we walked we passed the Bank of Ireland, once the site of the Irish Parliament and the first such purpose building built in Europe.  It was built in 1739 and served as the Parliament building until 1801, when the democratic representatives became the only body of government to vote themselves out of existence.  With the vote to approve the Act of Union, they effectively accepted direct rule by Great Britain.  Located around the front of the building are still the small cannons that once served as Parliament’s security.



A short distance later and we arrived at the Statue of Molly Malone, erected in 1988 as part of Dublin’s millennium celebration and one of the most familiar and popular symbols of Dublin.  There was a huge crowd around here listening as their tour guides told them her story.  Molly Malone became popular among the citizens of Dublin from the song “Cockles and Mussels.” According to the song, the fictional character Molly Malone was a fishmonger who died young of cholera.  However, as her legend grew, some stories added that she was also a prostitute in Dublin, while others claimed she was one of the few chaste street sellers of the 17th century.  Whatever the story, and to be clear Molly Malone is a fictional character, controversy arose after her statue was unveiled.  The sculptor had portrayed her as a young girl with large breasts wearing a low-cut dress.  To those who believed the story that she was a chaste young woman, this was an affront to women.  Others just nicknamed the statue “The Tart with the Cart” or ” “The Dish with the Fish.”

Molly Malone Statue

Even the origin of the song is unknown.  Many feel it was a Scottish ballad while others think it was a 19th century Victorian music hall ballad.  It is not believed to have originated in Ireland as it has none of the characteristics of a traditional Irish ballad.  It has only been associated with Dublin because of its first line – “In Dublin’s fair city.”  Whatever its origin was, it become somewhat of a second national anthem to the Dubliners.  During the unveiling of the statue, the Dublin mayor proclaimed 13 June as “Molly Malone Day,” as researchers going through old records found that a Mary Malone (Molly would have been a nickname for Mary) had died on 13 June 1699.

Cockles and Mussels

 

In Dublin's fair city

Where the girls are so pretty

'Twas there that I first met

Sweet Molly Malone

 

She wheeled her wheelbarrow,

Through streets broad and narrow

Crying, "Cockles and mussels,

Alive, alive-oh!"

 

Chorus:

Alive, alive-oh

Alive, alive-oh

Crying, "Cockles and mussels,

Alive, alive-oh!"

 

She was a fishmonger

But sure 'twas no wonder

For so were her father

And mother before

 

And they each wheeled their barrow

Through streets broad and narrow

Crying, "Cockles and mussels,

Alive, alive-o"

 

(Chorus)

 

She died of a fever

And no one could save her

And that was the end of

Sweet Molly Malone

 

Now her ghost wheels her barrow

Through streets broad and narrow

Crying, "Cockles and mussels,

Alive, alive-o"

 

Alive, alive-oh

Alive, alive-oh

Crying, "Cockles and mussels,

Alive, alive-oh!"

 

 

 

 

 

We then walked back to Trinity College, which is literally just across the road from our hotel.  Trinity College, the oldest university in Ireland, is located in Parliament Square and whose formal name is the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth.  It was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I and is considered one of the most prestigious universities in Dublin.  Queen Elizabeth established the Trinity as a protestant school in the hopes of making Dublin a protestant city.  In 1793, Trinity changed its rules and allowed Catholics to enter, but it wasn’t until 1970 that the Catholic Church allowed its members to attend.  Women were granted admission in 1904.  Notable attendees include Oscar Wilde, Jonathan Swift, Bram Stoker, Samuel Beckett, and several former Presidents of Ireland.

As you enter the college through an arch, you are greeted with a free-standing bell tower in the middle of an open area.  During April and May when the magnolias are in bloom the grounds of the college are beautiful.

Trinity University Bell Tower

Campus Buildings

As prestigious as its academic record is, it is its library that is the biggest tourist attraction.  Inside, the library contains almost 7 million volumes of books, manuscripts, maps, and printed music.  The library is a “legal deposit” library and as such it receives all books printed in Great Britain and Ireland (about 100,000/year).  It is said that the library contains one of the most beautiful sets of bookshelves in Europe.  Found inside the library is a copy of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic and the Brian Boru – a 15th wooden Gaelic harp that is the national symbol of Ireland.  But it is one book in particular that garners all this massive interest and that is the Book of Kells contained in the Treasury section of the Library.  The Book of Kells is the most important medieval manuscript in Ireland.  Located in the Old Library’s Long Room, it takes center stage to the 200,000 other books and 14 marble busts found in this room under its barrel-vaulted ceiling.

The Book of Kells is a vibrantly illuminated manuscript written in Latin that contains the first four Gospels of the New Testament along with some related texts and tables.  The exact origin of the Book is not known, but it is believed to have been written around 800 AD by monks from a Columban monastery in either Scotland, England or Ireland.  What makes it so important is not so much the text it contains, but the beauty and majesty of its illustrations.  Many of the pictures contained in this manuscript were framed by intricate Celtic knotwork motifs.  The colorful ink that was used was made by grinding up insects.

Celtic Knotwork (left) Page from Book of Kells (right)

Before entering the Treasury, there is a room that is designed to explain what the Book of Kells is (it is really 4 books containing the first four Gospel of  New Testament) and some of the techniques used by the monks to create the intricate artwork. 

Copies from Book of Kells

Portrait of Christ from Book of Kells

Copy of Book of Armagh-only Irish
copy   of complete book of New Testament
in Latin

Portrait of St. John from Book of Kells


The Treasury where the one of the four books is displayed is very dark and plain.  The book sits in a glass enclosed box where sensors track the humidity and temperature.  No pictures are allowed and you only see one page of the book.  The book is changed about every four months.  The page we saw today was rather nondescript with just one row of Celtic art. 

From the Treasury, you enter into the Old Library (or Long Ro) which is the main part of the library.  Large floor to ceiling bookcases line both sides of the room with a marble bust of an important academic person, such as Socrates and Plato.  Normally all the book cases are filled with books, but the Library is undergoing a large renovation, so only a few of the cases contained books.  These books do not just collect dust, they are still used and studied by people authorized to use them.  In the center of the room hangs a huge balloon of the earth.  In one display case was a facsimile of the Book of Kells that you were able to take a picture of (pictured below) so you can see the beautiful artwork down by these monks over 1600 years ago.

Bust of Socretes

Looking down long row of Bookcases
in Old Library

Bust of Plato

Proclamation of 1916

Facsimile of Page from Book of Kells 


Leaving Trinity College, we decided food was in order.  I had not eaten all day and Bill only had a light breakfast about 6 am this morning.  The receptionist at the hotel recommended a pub just down the street from our hotel – the Oliver St. John Gogarty Pub.  The food was great and it had live Irish music.  And at 3 pm on a Friday afternoon, it was packed.  We finally managed to grab a small table and Bill enjoyed a light beer (no Guiness for him) and fish and chips, while a enjoyed a wonderful Sauvignon Blanc with my Irish Stew.  What an enjoyable way to end our first day in Dublin!

 

20 June 2024 Introduction to Dublin

 

20-21 June 2024        Introduction to Dublin Blog

Today we started our journey to the beautiful, lush green county of Ireland.  We flew from Denver to Newark where we overnighted before our flight to Dublin.  The next evening we flew from Newark to Dublin, arriving about 7 AM the next morning.  Thank goodness for lie-flat seats – they are a life-saver! 

Dublin, located on the east coast of the country, is the capital of the Republic of Ireland and is a city steeped in history, literature, and pubs.  The name Dublin comes from the Irish word DubhlindDubh means” black or dark” while lind means” pool.”  It refers to the dark pools found where the River Poddle enters the Liffey, the river that runs through the center of Dublin.  In Irish, the river Liffey is known as “An Life” and is mentioned often in the great literary works of the Irish authors and songwriters.  Known as the city of “saints and scholars,” its culture is filled with legends, songs, and stories.

While Dublin officially declares 988 as the year of the first Viking settlement on what would later become Dublin, there is some indication that before the Vikings arrived there was a Christian settlement that was known as Duibhlinn.  Today there is still a little controversy over the recent construction of government buildings in Wood Quay, which was  the site of this first settlement.  And just to the west of Wood Quay, archaeologists have found a large number of Viking warrior burials.  This area, Kilmainham-Islandbridge, is now considered the largest burial complex of its type in western Europe (with the notable exclusion of Scandinavia).

The Vikings kept control of the area until 1169 when the Normans invaded Ireland.  Then in the 16th century the Tudors conquered Ireland, making Dublin the center of administrative rule in Ireland.  In 1592, Queen Elizabeth I of England, wanting to make Dublin a Protestant city, established Trinity College a Protestant-only university.

The 18th century was a prosperous time in Dublin with a large increase in building and expansion – most of the architecture you see today came from that era.  During that time, it was the second largest city in the British Empire and the fifth largest in Europe. 

However, the signing of the Acts of Union in 1800, that officially made Ireland part of Great Britain, ushered in a period of political and economic unrest and decline.  With Dublin no longer the seat of the government, many politicians and aristocrats returned to London.  Opposition was strong against this change in government, and by the beginning of the 1900’s, revolutionary groups were being formed and protests held.  The Easter Rising of 1916, the Irish War of Independence, and the ensuing Irish Civil War all resulted in a considerable amount of damage to buildings in Dublin.

Following Ireland’s independence from Great Britain in 1949, Dublin began to grow as not only the capital of the Republic of Ireland, but as a popular tourist destination.  There is much to see in Dublin, as we shall soon learn, from historical sites like the Dublin Castle to majestic Cathedrals like St. Patrick’s to the numerous museums that are found throughout the city.

Two things are very apparent in Dublin.  First, they love their beer with 666 licensed pubs to prove it.  The oldest pub dates back to 1198.  As James Joyce once wrote:  “A good puzzle would be to cross Dublin without passing a pub.”  And the most Irish answer to this puzzle –“ visit them all.”  Perhaps the most important fact of Dublin’s history, especially if you like beer, is that the famous Guinness beer was first brewed in Dublin in 1759 at the St. James Brewery! 

Now here is a fact about Guinness beer that you don’t hear very often (if at all).  According to an article that I read, about 163,000 pints of Guinness are wasted every year.  Now you would expect some wastage from glasses being dropped or the beer overflowing the glass if you do not pour it right.  But no, it was determined that this wastage was due to beer adhering to the whiskers of a mustache!  According to research done by the Guiness brewing company, 1 ½ pints of beer is trapped in the mustache of the average drinker.  The company hired a hair specialist who did a 2-day analysis studying the Guinness soaked mustache hair of eight volunteers.  By using pre-weighted tissues and very accurate scales, this specialist determined facial hair can absorb 20% of its own weight in liquid.  So I guess the real question is – should you or shouldn’t you drink beer with a mustache?  Perhaps the answer is to use a straw!



But wait – there is actually a company in Missouri that has devised a way to avoid this beer loss.  They have a copper shield – called “whisker Dam” – that men with mustachoes can attach to the glass to preclude the beer from adhering to their whiskers.  It is like an umbrella for your face.  This idea stemmed from a tradition that dates back to the mid-19th century when a British potter named Harvey Adams created the mustache cup.  The cup was designed to suspend a man’s mustache to keep it up out of the way of the cup.


Harvey Adam's Cup

Whiskey Dam

 And secondly, the Dubliner’s are very proud of their literary legacy and influence.  Throughout the city are statues and memorials to some of their more famous authors – Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde, William Butler Yeats, Johnathan Swift, James Joyce, Bram Stoker – I am sure most of us remember reading at least some of the books and poems by these individuals sometime during our schooling.  It is said that Bram Stoker based his morbid writings in Dracula on his mother’s recollection of the cholera outbreak of 1832 in Sligo, Ireland.

This is where our tour, Irish Adventure: Dublin, Belfast, and the Northwest Counties,” begins.  We will have a few days on our own to discover Dublin and hopefully, learn more of its past and its heritage, as we visit some of Dublin’s most important historical and literary sites.  And of course, we will visit our fair share of Dublin’s pubs (but I can assure not all 666 of them) and enjoy the Irish cuisine and Irish music.  For the first part of our Dublin tour, we will be staying at the Temple Bar Inn very close to the famous Temple Bar and about a block away from the Liffey River and just across the street from Trinity College.


21 June 2024 Mysteries of Ireland

 

21 June 2024              Mysteries of Ireland

Yesterday’s blog recounted a simplistic history of Ireland, but today’s blog goes off on a different tangent – fun facts about some of the mysteries surrounding events that have happened in Ireland’s past (some are proven, some unproven, some believable, some not so).  I cannot say that they are all true, but they are fun to read.

The Nutty Night in Dublin

While Dublin slept on the night of 9 May 1867, they were awakened by the sound of objects pelting their rooftops and windows.  The next morning, to their surprise, they found the ground littered with round objects that were bigger than berries and hard as nuts.  No one had seen anything like this before.  As in the past when storms had dumped hundreds of fish on a specific area or a field of hay on another area, the most likely explanation for the round objects that fell was that the whirlwinds of nearby tornado-strength windstorm had sucked up the objects and when the winds subsided, the objects fell all at once to the ground.  While this seems a plausible explanation of how the objects fell, no one has been able prove what the objects actually were.  The most reliable explanation is that they were petrified hazelnuts that had been buried in peat bogs for many hundreds of years and a waterspout had destroyed the bogs and sucked up the debris into the air.  However, no one has ever been able to identify any bog that had been destroyed in such a manner.  And this occurrence has never happened since.

The Red Hail

While driving his horse and buggy in County Down in 1885 a lawyer was caught in a hailstorm.  But this was no ordinary hailstorm – the hail was red.  And when it melted whatever it came into contact with – hands and clothes – was stained red.  No one was ever able to determine what caused the red hail and the occurrence still remains unsolved.

The Bones Mystery

While excavating the Knockarea Cave in 2014, archaeologists uncovered 13 bones deep inside the most inaccessible corner of the cave.  While first believing that they were a father and son buried there, an examination determined that the bones came from a man that was 5,500 years old and a child that was 5,200 years old.  The archaeologists then decided that the cave must have been used as a holding place for bodies to decompose before being buried in their final resting place.  However, the place where the bones were found had no clear exit and there was no evidence that any other bodies had been placed there.  While the “what” that was buried there has been solved, the “why” still remains a mystery.

The Mysterious Adze (A Stone Ax Head)

When archaeologists uncovered the oldest burial in Ireland by the River Shannon in County Limerick, they found the cremated human remains (dating back 9,000 years) and a beautifully shaped adze (an ancient cutting tool similar to an ax).  As it showed no sign of ever having been used, scientists determined that it had been made as a symbolic offering to the person buried there.  What was truly amazing and cannot be explained is who made this instrument.  Why – because the next such adze did not appear again for 3,000 years.

A Field of Gold and Jewelry

While plowing their fields in Northern Ireland in 1896, farmers found gold, a heavy bowl, a sailing ship, and several pieces of jewelry.  After cleaning them up, they sold some of the pieces without realizing that they most likely were from the Iron Age.  While these objects have been printed on stamps and seals as examples of early Irish craftsmanship, two of the objects (loop-in-loop chain necklaces) were not Irish, but were either Sicilian, Roman, or Etruscan.  No one has ever been able to determine why or how they got there.

The Stowaway Artist

One very early morning in 1941, dockworkers in Dublin were awakened by an eerie knocking sound, but no ships had come in that evening.  One of the dockworkers traced the noise to a shipping container.  When he opened it, he found a French artist, lying upside down in a pile of plaster.  It seems to save money, the artist had made a plaster cast of himself (to protect himself from being jostled on the trip to Dublin), and then locked himself inside the crate.  When the container was off-loaded in Dublin, the workers just threw it off the ship and it landed upside down where the artist remained until someone heard his knocking.

The Magic Hill

There is a hill outside of Waterford (on the way to Mahon Falls) that seems to have a mind of its own.  After driving almost to the bottom and putting your car in neutral, it appears you do not roll down the hill but that you start inching back up the hill.  This is not magic but an optical illusion.  At this point of the hill, the horizon is not visible in any direction and the landscape itself undulates.  While it appears the road is going downhill, it is actually going up a slight incline.

From past experience on our many OAT tours, our Trip Leaders also have fascinating stories and legends about the places we visit.  Hopefully, this Trip Leader has some interesting (believable and unbelievable) stories that I will be able to pass on to you.


Tuesday, June 18, 2024

 Introduction to Ireland

19 June 2024        Introduction to Ireland Blog

We will soon depart for our next adventure in “The Trip That Never Ends” – a two-week tour of the beautiful, lush green country of Ireland.  We will be introduced to many of the historical facts that are contained below in this brief history of Ireland.

Ireland is a small island located on the most western part of Europe.  It is distinctly two separate countries.  The Republic of Ireland, with its capital of Dublin, lies in the southern 2/3 of the country and is mainly Catholic.  It finally left the United Kingdom and became an independent country with the signing of the Republic of Ireland Act in 1948 and effective on Easter Monday 1949.  Ireland is now part of the European Union.  Northern Ireland and its capital Belfast are part of the United Kingdom and while the Anglican church still remains the dominate religion in the region, the Catholics in Northern Ireland are increasing and may soon out-number the other religions.  For the last several centuries, religion has played a key role in the history of Ireland and is the main cause of the division of the land.

I am not going to try to go into all the ramifications of Brexit, because, quite frankly, there are still many issues that are yet to be fully resolved.  Suffice it to say, it is still a very complicated and complex issue although the border between Ireland and Northern Ireland now seems to run smoothly. 

Notwithstanding the earlier conquests by the Vikings and the Normans, more recent Irish history has been violent and tumultuous, as the Irish and the British fought over control of the country and its religion.  In my opinion, religion has played a major role in just about every major conquest or war in the history of this world.  While religion brings salvation, peace, hope and harmony to many of its practitioners, it has been the root cause of more destruction, death, and in some cases, the loss of culture and civilization than any other event.  Now I’ll get off my soapbox.

The following is a rather brief synopsis of Ireland’s history.  (For an even briefer outline, just skip to the end of this blog.)  I have skipped over most of the history as it pertains to Northern Ireland, especially after the two parts of Ireland became separate entities.  I will go into more of Northern Ireland and Belfast’s history in my Introduction to Northern Ireland and Belfast blog.

The first known civilization to leave its mark on Ireland were the Celts, known as Gaels, who invaded Ireland from Western Europe sometime between 600-150 BCE.  Although the 150 little kingdoms established by the Celts in Ireland remained independent of each other, they all shared a common language (Gaelic) and a class of men educated in law who helped to establish a uniform, but archaic, social system among the kingdoms. 

In the 5th century AD, St. Patrick introduced Christianity to the country, but the system modelled after Roman Christianity with its bishops and dioceses, did not take hold in Ireland.  In fact, unlike most other European countries who fell under the domination of the Roman Empire, Ireland was somehow isolated from the Romans.  During the 6th and 7th century, Irish monasteries became the center of learning, and while the rest of Europe was in the Dark Ages, Ireland was enjoying its golden age.  It was during this timeframe that the Book of Kells was written.

During the 8th century, the Vikings from Scandinavia began invading Ireland.  While other countries of Europe were able to respond to these invasions through a system of feudalism and the ability to exchange land for military service, the Gaelic civilization did not lend itself to the feudal system.  They did finally manage to organize a resistance and in 1014 the Vikings were defeated by the Celts led by King Brian Boru at the Battle of Clontarf.  Although the Celts had a king in Boru, he was more of a king in name only.  Without the infrastructure of feudalism, he really had no real power, unlike the monarchies that were beginning in Europe.  Although the Vikings were defeated, they left their mark by the founding of Ireland’s first cities – Dublin, Limerick, and Waterford.

In the 12th century, the Irish faced a more daunting challenge, one that set the course of Ireland’s history from then to the present day.  This challenge came from the Normans who brought with them a highly effective feudal monarchy.  The Normans were founded in England by William I (William the Conqueror) after he invaded England in 1066 from Normandy France.  In 1171, Henry II, acting on a letter from the pope that authorized him to become overlord of Ireland, in an attempt to bring the Irish church into more compliance with Roman standards, went to Ireland after a group of Anglo-Norman adventurers and barons had gained a stronghold in the southeast part of the country.  When he landed in Ireland, he proclaimed his lordship over part of the country and appointed his son John as Lord of Ireland.  However, England at that time had more pressing affairs – like the Hundred Years War (1338-1453) – than Ireland and therefore never really solidified its hold on the country.  In effect, there were two parts of the country – Dublin and its surrounding area (referred to as the Pale) where England exercised authority and the land outside of Dublin that was controlled by the lawless natives (the Celts).  This was the origin of the saying “Beyond the Pale,” which means outside the bounds of acceptable behavior.

By the 14th century, the English colony in Ireland had reached its highest potential, while the Gaelic society was enjoying a resurgence.  This came about mainly by the intermarriage of Anglo-Normans with the Gaelic people and their subsequent adoption of the Gaelic language and culture.  In an attempt to reverse this integration of the two cultures, the English enacted the Statutes of Kilkenny, that among other provisions, forbade the marriage between Anglos and the Gaelic.  While the Anglo-Normans did bring reform to the Irish church in keeping with the Roman standards and introduced English legal practices and civil administration, this only applied to the small area of the Pale that was controlled by the Anglo-Normans.  One feature that did result from these reforms was the modelling of the Irish Parliament after the English one in the late 13th century.  But because Ireland tended to support the Yorks in England’s Wars of the Roses, England’s King Henry VII forced the Irish Parliament to adopt Poyning’s Law in 1494, which gave the English veto power over any legislation that would be proposed by the Irish Parliament.  So, while the Norman Conquest brought a new rule for Ireland, it also brought rebellion and discontent.

In the 16th century, the English monarchy made a more concerted effort to reconquer Ireland through military expeditions and the sending of English settlers over to establish colonies in Ireland.  In the 1530s, Elizabeth I (Queen of Ireland from 1558-1603) severed ties with the church of Rome, thus complicating the reconquest of Ireland.  She misjudged the faith of most of the Gaelic Irish and the Anglo-Irish people who refused to accept the transformation of their church into the Protestant Church of Ireland.  Towards the end of Elizabeth I’s rule, the Gaelic chieftains of Ulster, under the leadership of Hugh O’Neill, began a resistance against the English rule.  In defeating this resistance, the British forces devasted the Ulster countryside.  King James of England (Elizabeth’s successor) was willing to allow the leaders to live out their lives on their ancestral lands as nobles, but not petty kings as they had been in Gaelic society.  Unable to accept these conditions, the chieftains fled to the European continent in 1607.  As a result, the king seized their land and sent British Protestant colonists to settle throughout central and west Ulster.  (Note:  Ulster today is part of Northern Ireland.)

When Charles I (James’ son) took control, he enacted several proclamations that increased taxes on Catholics, took their land, and denied them their rights as a citizen.  This led to increased tension and resentment and in 1641, the Gaelic Irish in Ulster again rebelled against the British settlers in what is called the Irish Rebellion of 1641.  (Note:  This rebellion was also considered to be part of the Three Kingdoms War that England fought with Scotland and Ireland.)  This rebellion was defeated by Oliver Cromwell’s invasion of Ireland in 1649, thus beginning a four-year campaign of re-conquest, retribution, and terror.  Many Catholics were killed during this timeframe, and today Oliver Cromwell may well be the most hated man in the Republic of Ireland.  As part of the Act of Settlement in 1652, Catholics were barred from membership in the Irish Parliament, the majority also lost all their land, and the Catholic priests were expelled from Ireland.  Cromwell used most of the confiscated land to repay his soldiers and investors.  As a result, Ireland came under the control of the British.  This rebellion did, however, play a role in  the downfall of King Charles I.  The Puritan Party led by Oliver Cromwell, defeated Charles to end the Three Kingdoms War.  Much of the unrest and division that was to become part of Ireland’s modern history can be tied directly to Cromwell’s conquest over Ireland and the English attempt to eradicate the Catholic religion. 

In an attempt to get their land back, the Irish Catholics sided with the British Catholic King James II during England’s Glorious Revolution of 1668.  When James was defeated by William III in 1690, the Irish Catholics again felt the wrath of England.  The Penal Laws were passed that excluded the Catholics from property and power.  However, the protestant victory did not give the Protestants the same rights as their counterparts in England, and British trade policies discriminated against Ireland (regardless of whether you were Protestant or Catholic).  Therefore, a large number of Scottish Presbyterians emigrated to America.  Finally, in 1782, a “Patriot” party backed by Protestant supporters convinced the British government to amend Poyning’s Law to give the Irish Parliament its legislative independence and the right to establish Ireland’s own tariff policy.

However even these 1782 reforms were not democratic enough to satisfy many of the Presbyterian merchants and farmers in the northern part of Ireland.  They united with a Catholic group from the southern part of the country, and although a 1798 rebellion was quickly extinguished, it was enough to convince the British government to end Ireland’s separate political institutions.  After much bribing, the members of the Irish Parliament voted to pass the Act of Union (1800) which abolished the Irish Parliament and gave control over Ireland to the British Kingdom with a single Parliament, in England, governing the British Isles.  Catholics, who had finally won the right to vote in 1793, were led to believe that this united Parliament would give them the right to hold a parliamentary seat.  However, that right did not happen until 1829, when Daniel O’Connell (perhaps Ireland’s most important revolutionary) led a revolt for Catholic Emancipation.

The great potato famine came to Ireland in 1845 by way of a potato blight inadvertently brought over from North America to Europe.  At the time people thought it was just an isolated event, but the potato cropped failed for the next four years.  By the time it ended over 1.5 million Irish were dead and another 1 million had emigrated to North America and Europe.  During this time, the potato was perhaps the most important food item for the Irish masses as it was the only food many could afford.  And unfortunately for the Irish, the British were unresponsive to their plight.  Although England had sufficient resources, such as cattle and grains, rather than give them to Ireland, they sold them on the international market.  This betrayal by the English (as many Irish saw it) was perhaps the straw that broke the camel’s back.  The period following the famine until 1922 was filled with rebellions and declarations of independence for Ireland.

One good thing that did result from the famine was the close friendship between the Irish and the Native American Choctaw Nation.  Despite their own poverty, the Choctaw Nation gave a donation of $170 (in today’s world that would amount to $5,000) to the Irish and began a lasting bond that continues today.  16 years later, the Choctaw Indians were forcibly removed from their lands by President Andrew Jackson and marched to Oklahoma in what is called today “The Trail of Tears.”  Over 4,000 Indians died from famine, cold or disease in this event.

The town of Middleton in County Cork has a sculpture, called the Kindred Spirits Monument, to honor this gift.  It consists of a series of giant metal feathers arranged in a circle to symbolize the shape of an empty bowl.  And in 1990, several Choctaw leaders participated in the first annual Famine Walk in County Mayo.  In 1992, a group of Irish men and women walked the 600 miles of the Trail of Tears, raising $170,000 for famine relief in Somalia.  The Irish Prime Minister in 2018, while visiting the Choctaw Nation, announced that a scholarship program had been established that will allow Choctaw students to study in Ireland.  And in 2020, the Irish people raised more than $1 million dollars to help the Navajo Indians during COVID.

For those old enough to remember the counting song “This Old Man” (complete song below this explanation), this song is believed to have had its roots in the potato famine. When many Irish fled to England during the famine, many became beggars just to exist.  They were known as “Paddies” as they would go door to door selling knick-knacks and also playing a rhythm of “nick nack” using spoons, hoping to receive some pennies.  As the story goes, the English who answered the door would give these “beggars” a “whack”, but give the dogs who accompanied them a bone, before sending the beggars on their way.

This old man he played one

He played nick nack on my drum

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played two

He played nick nack on my shoe

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played three

He played nick nack on my tree

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played four

He played nick nack on my door

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played five

He played nick nack on my hive

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played six

He played nick nack on my stick

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played seven

He played nick nack on my deven

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played eight

He played nick nack on my gate

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played nine

He played nick nack on my vine

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

This old man he played ten

He played nick nack on my hen

With a nick nack paddy whack

Give a dog a bone

This old man came rolling home

After the famine, a movement to gain Home Rule took hold.  This was a backlash to the Acts of Union 1800 and a desire for self-government for Ireland within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland.  This became the dominant political movement of Irish nationalism from 1879 to the end of WWI.  An Irish nationalist party (read that as Catholics) was established to demand home rule with a separate Irish parliament within the United Kingdom along with land reforms.  As a result, nearly every parliamentary seat having a Catholic majority was won by this party, giving its leader, Charles Stewart Parnell, a powerful leverage in British politics.  In 1910-14, the Irish nationalist party won the enactment of a Home Rule Bill, but it also gave rise to the Ulster Covenant, which gave the northern Protestants the power to resist the home rule by force.  Quasi military forces were organized on both sides, but WWI intervened, and the Home Rule issue was suspended until the end of the war.

During Easter 1916, frustration over the continued postponement of home rule led to the Easter Rising in Dublin.  On 24 April, Patrick Pearce, one of the Irish Republican (Catholic) leaders, issued a Proclamation of the Republic on the steps of the Dublin General Post Office.  Led by Irish republican leader James Connolly, this rebellion was subsequently a failure with 15 of its leaders (including Connolly and Pearce) executed, but it succeeded in bringing in a whole new generation of leaders and sparking a new drive for Irish independence.

After WWI, the Sinn Fein party (again Catholic) won all but six of the Catholic seats in Parliament, but instead of going to the English Parliament, they set up a revolutionary parliament, Dail Eireann, in Dublin.  From 1919-1921, guerrilla warfare (Anglo-Irish War or the War of Independence) waged between the Catholic Irish Republican Army (IRA) and British forces.  The Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921, granted the Irish Free Republic dominion status within the British Commonwealth (just like Canada at the time), while giving Northern Ireland the right to opt out – which they did.  The King of England still functioned as the King of Ireland however.

Over the next 22 years, the Irish Free State would undergo three name changes as it moved closer to attaining its goal of a free Republic.  In 1937, a new constitution by Éamon de Valera, one of the Easter Uprising leaders who escaped execution, was adopted, calling the new state Eire, a republic in name only as it was still part of the British Commonwealth. .  The King of England was still the executive authority in Ireland.  During WWII, Ireland remained neutral.

Finally, in 1948, the Free State of Ireland won its complete independence from the British Commonwealth with the Republic of Ireland Act.  Éamon De Valera. perhaps the most famous Irish politician of this era, became the third president (1959-1973) of this new country – the Republic of Ireland.  While the attention of the country has turned toward greater economic development and self-sufficiency, there still remains the conflict with Northern Ireland and Ireland’s relationship with Great Britain over the Brexit issue.  While conflict with Northern Ireland has diminished over the years and the two sides have remained relatively peaceful, there is still no guarantee.  We hope to learn more about these issues when we visit both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, especially Belfast.

Although Ireland is a small country, it has produced an amazing number of famous writers and poets – Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, Sean O’Casey, George Bernard Shaw, C.S. Lewis, Samuel Becket, and Bram Stoker to name a few.  These writers have been a major influence in the English-language literature.  Many were born or lived or studied in Dublin, which we will learn more about when we visit the city.  Who hasn’t seen “My Fair Lady” based on Shaw’s “Pygmalion” or plowed through the 700+ pages of Ulysses by James Joyce, or read Stocker’s Dracula.  In addition to literature, Ireland (and mainly Dublin) was where Bono and his rock group U2 got their start.

With all its history and beautiful sites, there is one more reason to like Ireland – IT HAS NO SNAKES!!  So, it is right up there with New Zealand and Iceland as one of my favorite places.  While legend says it was St. Patrick who drove all the snakes into the sea when they began attacking him during a 40-day fast he was doing on the top of a hill in the 5th century, he actually had nothing to do with the fact that there are no snakes in Ireland.  A review of all the vast collections of fossils and other records of Irish animals show no indication that there ever where reptiles in Ireland.  The most scientific answer is it had everything to do with the recent ice age when the temperatures in Ireland were just too cold for snakes.  After the ice age ended, the seas surrounding Ireland kept any from swimming to the island and setting up home there.  As Mark Ryan, director of the Louisiana Poison Center at the Louisiana State University Health Sciences Center, said:  "There are no snakes in Ireland for the simple reason they couldn't get there because the climate wasn't favorable for them to be there.”

So how did the legend of St. Patrick ridding all the snakes in Ireland come to be.  Most believe that it was an allegorical tale created to help St. Patrick as he worked to Christianize the pagan population of Ireland during the 4-5th centuries.  Snakes have been a symbol of evil in Christianity – remember it was the snake that caused the downfall of Adam and Eve.  So by ridding the snakes, St. Patrick was showing the pagans how good Christianity was.  Well, whatever the reason, I am glad that I don’t have to worry about stepping on one during our many hikes in Ireland!

During my research on the sites we will be seeing, I came across some interesting, but somewhat obscure, facts about Ireland.  Did you know that there are over 30,000 Castles and ruins.  While we will not visit them all, we will hopefully see the Blarney Castle (famous for its Blarney Stone), Dublin Castle, and Donegal Castle.  We will also see ruins of several castles on our journey with many of these ruins showing up in the TV show Game of Thrones.

Guinness Label with 
Gaelic Harp
While many think that the shamrock is the national symbol of Ireland, Ireland has the distinction of being the only nation with a musical instrument as its national icon – the harp.  Today the harp is known as a Celtic harp, a Gaelic harp, or a “cláirseach,” as harpists enjoyed a privileged status in the Celtic culture as far back as 1000 years.  You can find the harp symbol on many items, including Guinness Beer labels, Ryan airplanes, and Ireland’s passports.



And even our Halloween holiday has some of its roots in Ireland.  It all started with Samhain, an ancient Celtic pagen festival, where people built bonfires and dressed in costumes to celebrate the harvest season and to keep from being captured by ghosts or spirits.  Eventually this festival was combined with the religious All Saints Day and our Halloween was born.

And talk about a shrewd business man.  In 1959 Arthur Guiness signed a lease on a run-down brewery in Dublin.  The lease for brewery was 45 pounds/month for a period of 9,000 years!   Now that is a bargain. 

Our journey through Ireland will take us from Dublin to Belfast and then across the Northern coast of Ireland and the Giant Causeway and finally down the east coast and the Cliffs of Moher before ending in Shannon.  Along the way we will learn more about Irish/Gaelic culture, its people and their culture, customs and language, listen to many fascinating legends (I think Ireland was built on legends) and wonderful Irish music, view their amazing scenery, learn about their somewhat violent history, dodge lots of raindrops, and enjoy delicious Irish food and beer (or in my case wine) at many of the local pubs.  So, come with us as we don our green, get out our clogging shoes and raincoats, and begin our journey to the Emerald Isle.

Because Ireland is known not only for its scenery, music and beer, but also for its collection of sayings and blessings, I will try and include a different one at the end of each blog.  Enjoy and may the luck of the Irish be with you!

                                                                    

                                        

 

Map of our Tour




Counties of Ireland

 


 

 

 

Short History of Ireland

500 BCE                     Celtic Invasion of Ireland

795 AD                       Vikings Invade and Conquer Celts

1171                            English (Anglo-Normans) conquer the Vikings beginning 7 centuries of English domination

1690                            Catholics gain dominance over the Protestants after the Catholic English King James II was defeated by William II.  Penal Laws against Catholics enacted

1800                            Acts of Union 1800 officially made Ireland a part of the United Kingdom

1845-49                       Great Potato Famine – over 1.5 million died and 1 million emigrated

1914                            Home Rule for Ireland enacted but suspended during WWI

1916                            Easter Rising – sparked a new drive for Irish independence

1919                            Irish Republic declares independence from England and Irish War of Independence begins

1921                            Government of Ireland Act – partitioned Ireland –Irish Free Republic with a “de facto” government granted status as dominion state under English Rule.  Northern Ireland opted out and remained part of the United Kingdom

1937                            A new constitution written renaming the Irish Free State to Eire, a republic in name only, as it was still ruled by England

1949                            The Republic of Ireland became a free and independent nation with the enactment of the Republic of Ireland Act

1969-1999                   “The Troubles” – civil conflict and riots in Northern Ireland.  As a result of the Good Friday Agreement of 1999, the Republic of Ireland gave up all constitutional rights to Northern Ireland and the United Kingdom yielded their direct rule of Northern Ireland

1973                            The Republic of Ireland joint the European Union