Friday, June 21, 2024

20 June 2024 Introduction to Dublin

 

20-21 June 2024        Introduction to Dublin Blog

Today we started our journey to the beautiful, lush green county of Ireland.  We flew from Denver to Newark where we overnighted before our flight to Dublin.  The next evening we flew from Newark to Dublin, arriving about 7 AM the next morning.  Thank goodness for lie-flat seats – they are a life-saver! 

Dublin, located on the east coast of the country, is the capital of the Republic of Ireland and is a city steeped in history, literature, and pubs.  The name Dublin comes from the Irish word DubhlindDubh means” black or dark” while lind means” pool.”  It refers to the dark pools found where the River Poddle enters the Liffey, the river that runs through the center of Dublin.  In Irish, the river Liffey is known as “An Life” and is mentioned often in the great literary works of the Irish authors and songwriters.  Known as the city of “saints and scholars,” its culture is filled with legends, songs, and stories.

While Dublin officially declares 988 as the year of the first Viking settlement on what would later become Dublin, there is some indication that before the Vikings arrived there was a Christian settlement that was known as Duibhlinn.  Today there is still a little controversy over the recent construction of government buildings in Wood Quay, which was  the site of this first settlement.  And just to the west of Wood Quay, archaeologists have found a large number of Viking warrior burials.  This area, Kilmainham-Islandbridge, is now considered the largest burial complex of its type in western Europe (with the notable exclusion of Scandinavia).

The Vikings kept control of the area until 1169 when the Normans invaded Ireland.  Then in the 16th century the Tudors conquered Ireland, making Dublin the center of administrative rule in Ireland.  In 1592, Queen Elizabeth I of England, wanting to make Dublin a Protestant city, established Trinity College a Protestant-only university.

The 18th century was a prosperous time in Dublin with a large increase in building and expansion – most of the architecture you see today came from that era.  During that time, it was the second largest city in the British Empire and the fifth largest in Europe. 

However, the signing of the Acts of Union in 1800, that officially made Ireland part of Great Britain, ushered in a period of political and economic unrest and decline.  With Dublin no longer the seat of the government, many politicians and aristocrats returned to London.  Opposition was strong against this change in government, and by the beginning of the 1900’s, revolutionary groups were being formed and protests held.  The Easter Rising of 1916, the Irish War of Independence, and the ensuing Irish Civil War all resulted in a considerable amount of damage to buildings in Dublin.

Following Ireland’s independence from Great Britain in 1949, Dublin began to grow as not only the capital of the Republic of Ireland, but as a popular tourist destination.  There is much to see in Dublin, as we shall soon learn, from historical sites like the Dublin Castle to majestic Cathedrals like St. Patrick’s to the numerous museums that are found throughout the city.

Two things are very apparent in Dublin.  First, they love their beer with 666 licensed pubs to prove it.  The oldest pub dates back to 1198.  As James Joyce once wrote:  “A good puzzle would be to cross Dublin without passing a pub.”  And the most Irish answer to this puzzle –“ visit them all.”  Perhaps the most important fact of Dublin’s history, especially if you like beer, is that the famous Guinness beer was first brewed in Dublin in 1759 at the St. James Brewery! 

Now here is a fact about Guinness beer that you don’t hear very often (if at all).  According to an article that I read, about 163,000 pints of Guinness are wasted every year.  Now you would expect some wastage from glasses being dropped or the beer overflowing the glass if you do not pour it right.  But no, it was determined that this wastage was due to beer adhering to the whiskers of a mustache!  According to research done by the Guiness brewing company, 1 ½ pints of beer is trapped in the mustache of the average drinker.  The company hired a hair specialist who did a 2-day analysis studying the Guinness soaked mustache hair of eight volunteers.  By using pre-weighted tissues and very accurate scales, this specialist determined facial hair can absorb 20% of its own weight in liquid.  So I guess the real question is – should you or shouldn’t you drink beer with a mustache?  Perhaps the answer is to use a straw!



But wait – there is actually a company in Missouri that has devised a way to avoid this beer loss.  They have a copper shield – called “whisker Dam” – that men with mustachoes can attach to the glass to preclude the beer from adhering to their whiskers.  It is like an umbrella for your face.  This idea stemmed from a tradition that dates back to the mid-19th century when a British potter named Harvey Adams created the mustache cup.  The cup was designed to suspend a man’s mustache to keep it up out of the way of the cup.


Harvey Adam's Cup

Whiskey Dam

 And secondly, the Dubliner’s are very proud of their literary legacy and influence.  Throughout the city are statues and memorials to some of their more famous authors – Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde, William Butler Yeats, Johnathan Swift, James Joyce, Bram Stoker – I am sure most of us remember reading at least some of the books and poems by these individuals sometime during our schooling.  It is said that Bram Stoker based his morbid writings in Dracula on his mother’s recollection of the cholera outbreak of 1832 in Sligo, Ireland.

This is where our tour, Irish Adventure: Dublin, Belfast, and the Northwest Counties,” begins.  We will have a few days on our own to discover Dublin and hopefully, learn more of its past and its heritage, as we visit some of Dublin’s most important historical and literary sites.  And of course, we will visit our fair share of Dublin’s pubs (but I can assure not all 666 of them) and enjoy the Irish cuisine and Irish music.  For the first part of our Dublin tour, we will be staying at the Temple Bar Inn very close to the famous Temple Bar and about a block away from the Liffey River and just across the street from Trinity College.


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