Tuesday, July 23, 2024

7 July 2024 Ennistymon Galway Wild Atlantic Coastal Drive

 7 July 2024     Ennistymon  Galway  Wild Atlantic Coastal Drive

Today we began our drive to our last destination in Ireland – Ennistymon.  It is a small country market town, dating back to 1775, with the River Inagh running through the center of town.  The river is best known for its Cascades, a set of waterfalls that we had a beautiful view of once we got to our hotel.

 

Irish Countryside

Irish Countryside

Along the way we stopped at The Quiet Man’s Bridge, made famous in a 1952 Oscar-winning film of the same name starring John Wayne.  This is the most famous of the movies filmed in the Connemara region and its scenes of Ireland’s lush green countryside did a lot to promote tourism in Ireland.

 

Stone Walls in Fields

Quiet Man's Bridge




We then stopped in Galway, the unofficial capital of western Ireland.  A harbor town, it was founded by the Anglo-Normans in the 13th century and still has parts of its medieval wall which were built by the Normans in 1270 AD.

 It is a town of winding cobblestone alleyways, ancient architecture, old wooden buildings, pubs with their offerings of live music, and colorfully painted shops.  The city center is located on both sides of the River Corrib where you usually find swans swimming by.  In the summer of 1963, President Kennedy, the first Irish Catholic president in the US, visited Galway where during his speech, told Ireland to open up to the world.  His family had fled Ireland during the potato famine.  He started a tradition that visiting US presidents have to drink a pint of Guinness.  And according to Tom, after Kennedy was elected every house in Galway had a picture of him on their fireplace mantle.


One of Ireland’s traditions, the Claddagh Ring, originated in Galway.  The ring represents love (the heart), loyalty (the crown), and friendship (the hands). While sometimes used as a friendship ring, the most common use is as an engagement or wedding ring.  They may also be given by mothers to their daughters when they come of age.  The way the ring is worn denotes the relationship status:


 

·       On the right hand with the point of the heart toward the fingertips: the wearer is single and might be looking for love.

·       On the right hand with the point of the heart pointing in: the wearer is in a relationship; someone "has captured their heart"

·       On the left ring finger with the point of the heart toward the fingertips: the wearer is engaged.

·       On the left ring finger with the point of the heart pointing in: the wearer is married.

 

Galway also has a legend associated with it.  It has been said that Galway was named after a chieftain’s daughter who drowned.  Beginning in the 1700s, stories have been told about the Lady in White, a ghost (believed to be the drowned daughter) who walks along the waterside promenade.  However, several years ago, pictures taken of the promenade walk showed a single image of a new ghost, this time a Woman in Black.  And the mystery continues….

 We had a 1-hour walking tour of the city.  We started first in the Galway’s largest shopping mall where the remnants of the old City Walls with two of its remaining towers are located.   We then walked to Eyre Square.  Inside the square is a memorial to Kennedy on the exact spot where he gave his 1963 speech in Galway.  And in the center of the square is Quincentennial Fountain, built in 1984 to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the Royal Charter granted by King Richard II that created Galway as an independent city-state.  It is composed of metal red sails that are also a memorial to the red sails of Galways red hookers.  Now before your minds start wandering toward the gutter, red hookers are traditional boats that originated in Galway.   We ended our walk with a stole down Shop Street, lined on both sides with shops and pubs. One of the buildings, now a bank, was once Lynch’s Castle.  It was built in the 16th century by the Lynch family, one of the most powerful rulers of Galway, as a fortification against raids. 

 

Lynch's Castle

Quincentennial Fountain

JFK Meorial

City Walls

City Walls

Bathroom Sign in Mall

As we were having lunch on our own, Bill and I found a pub (hard to believe that at 10:00 am on a Sunday morning that pubs would be open) and had lunch.  Bill settled for a hamburger while I had a delicious seafood chowder and an Irish coffee.  After lunch we walked along the river front where several swans were swimming to Galway’s Cathedral where our bus was parked.  Unfortunately, we were not allowed inside as they were having mass.



Swans in the River

Galway's Cathedral




After lunch we continued our drive to Ennistymon.  As we drove through one small town, Tom pointed at a hotel that had a thatched roof.  Appropriately, the bar inside the hotel was named Thatched Roof Bar.  We then made a stop stop on a hillside to see beautiful views of the sea and a small section of the Burren (Irish for ‘great rock”) National Park.  This is an area that is filled with fields of grey limestone hills and outcroppings that were shaped by geological forces some 359 million years ago.  It is located in Country Clare and measures around 135 square miles.

Ruins of an Old Castle

Thatched Roof Hotel

Irish Countryside

Another Castle in Ruins

Irish Countryside with Burren in Background

The Burrens

The Burrens

The Burrens

Looking Out at Galway Bay


Our last stop was a rest stop in a small seaside town.  Here Tom bought all of us a drink (mainly Irish coffee) as this was the only way we could use the rest rooms.  I sure hope OAT reimburses him for this.

After arriving in Ennistymon, we checked into our hotel (Falls Hotel & Spa).   Ennistymon is a very small (only 1,000 inhabitants) market town but our hotel was huge.  It sits on a large hillside with the River Inagh running through it and its waterfall on its border.  It also has a herd of about 6 donkeys.  Unfortunately, the only place to eat in this town was the hotel’s restaurant unless you wanted to take a taxi to a nearby town.  Another couple and us decided to eat in the hotel.  It was a very good dinner, but it was a pricey 3-course dinner.  But the views from the dining room were beautiful.

 

Cascades from Our Hotel

Cascades from Our Hotel



 

 

 


Sunday, July 21, 2024

5 July 2024 Discover Creevykeel Court Tomb • Discover National Museum of Ireland Country Life • Overland to Connemara



 5 July 2024     Discover Creevykeel Court Tomb • Discover National Museum of Ireland Country Life • Overland to Connemara

 Yesterday was an optional tour to a National Park.  As the weather looked very iffy for walking in the forest, we elected to stay back at the hotel and just relax for the day.  Dinner was at the hotel and after dinner we were treated to a demonstration of Celtic dancing.  Before the dance, Tom brought out some Budweiser Bill in honor of the 4th of July. The Irish dancing was performed by three girls – 2 sisters aged 20 and 17 and a 5-year old.  The 2 older girls have participated in competitions and the 20-year old auditioned and was selected to perform in “Riverdance” in Dubia.  It is amazing how quickly they can move their feet.  I would have tripped over my feet and landed unceremoniously on the floor.  I can’t put the video in this blog, but I do have several minutes of them dancing.

Tom and Our 4th of July Toast

The Three Irish Dancers


 








Today we are traveling from Donegal to Connemara, one of Ireland’s loveliest regions located along the rugged Atlantic Ocean coast in western County Galway.  Along the way we will see a patchwork of bogs, lakes and mountains as well as dry stoned walls that line most of the fields we passed.  The name Connemara is Irish for “Inlets of the Sea.”   Amazingly there are some palm trees as 359 million years ago, Ireland was located only 10 degrees above the equator.  While Connemara is renowned for its savage beauty (as Oscar Wilde described it) and wild terrain, including mountains, valleys, lakes, and streams, it is also the largest area with a strong association with traditional Irish culture and the Irish language Gaeilge.  The regions where the Irish language is the prevalent language are known as Gaeltachts and are predominately along the western coast.  While most people here can switch from Gaeilge to English fairly easily, Gaeilge is the everyday language of about 70,000 people who live and work in this area.  Efforts are being made by the government, schools, and historians to try and preserve this language. 

 As we drove toward Clifden, our destination for the next few days, we saw many classic stone walls and lush green fields with herds of cows and sheep.  As this is spring, there were a lot of calves and lambs nestled close to their mothers. 

 Our first stop of the day was the Creevykeel Court Tomb.  Dating back to the Neolithic Period (4000-2500 BCE), this is one of five megalithic (a large stone used to construct a prehistoric structure or monument) monuments in this part of the country and one of the best maintained.  A court tomb is a collection of Megalithic stones formed in either a circle or cluster around a burial site.  There are about 400 of these tombs in Ireland and another 100 in Scotland.  While there we had the opportunity to walk around it.  The tomb covers an area 180’ by 82’.  At the entrance to the tomb there is the Wishing Tree (or Raggedy Tree).  According to Celtric tradition, people tie a piece of fabric into a loose branch and then make a wish.  If the wish is granted, then they untie the knot and leave the piece of cloth hanging loosely as thank you for having their wish come true.  You can also leave the fabric in remembrance of a lost loved one or relative.  The tree is usually a Hawthorn tree and is very prevalent around Halloween.  Tom gave each of a piece of yarn that he had purchased from Cyndi Graham, the weaver we had visited.  Each of us then tied the yarn to a branch – I tied mine in remembrance of my Mother and Father.

 

Wishing Tree

Entrance to the Sacred Ritual Area

Creevykeel Court Tomb

Wishing Tree















Creevykeel Court Tomb










We then continued our drive, stopping at the Classiebawn Castle viewing point for some photos.  Classiebawn Castle, built on a hill against the backdrop of Bunbulben Mountain, has a long and interesting history.  Originally the land upon which the castle was built belong to the Irish O’Connor family, but it was confiscated by the English Parliament to compensate those who stopped an Irish rebellion.  Lord Palmerston, once the Prime Minister of the UK, started construction of the building, but died in 1865 before it was completed.  It was completed by his son in 1874.  After that it changed hands many times until 1939 when the Countess Mountbatten of Burma inherited the castle.  She was married to the 1st Earl of Mountbatten of Burma who was King Phillip’s uncle.  If you watched the TV series “The Crown,” the castle was featured in series 4.  Lord Mountbatten was assassinated in August 1979 while fishing not far from Classiebawn Castle.  A member of the IRA had snuck onto the fishing boat the night before and attached a remote-controlled bomb.  According to legend, Mountbatten’s ghost still roams the halls of the castle, unable to find peace as a result of his violent and sudden death.  Today the castle is privately owned and you cannot get any closer than our viewing point.  While at the castle viewpoint we had our first view of the Wild Atlantic Way coastline.  It was stunning and hard to put its rugged beauty into words so I will just let the pictures speak for themselves.

Classiebawn Castle


Wild Atlantic Coast

Wild Atlantic Coast

Wild Atlantic Coast

Wild Atlantic Coast
Harbor Where Mountbatten Kept His Boat


 

The Wild Atlantic Coastal Drive is one of the most spectacular roads and at 1600 miles, it is one of the longest coastal drives in the world.  And with the blue Atlantic Ocean, towering, rugged cliffs, and beautiful beaches and bays, it is also one of the more picturesque drives.  The road goes from Derry in the northwest down to Kinsale in Cork County in the southeastern part of Ireland.

 

 

 

 

 

Irelands Shades of Green
After eating lunch at a garden center in Castlebar, we traveled a short distance to the National Museum of Ireland’s Country Life.  This is the permanent home of the National Folklife Collection that tells the story of the everyday life in rural Ireland, specifically the period between 1850 and 1950.  Exhibits include how farmers were affected by such events as the Potato Famine, the Land War, and other oppressive acts from Great Britain.  The museum shows how farmers worked their fields, established homes and communities, and spent their free time at home.  What was really interesting was the many things they could make out of their handmade rope to include a horse’s saddle, furniture, hats, and many types of baskets.  They also had an old Currach, a type of Irish boat, unique to the west coast of Ireland, that fisherman built by stretching animal skins over a wooden frame.

 

 


Clothes Worn in the Aran Islands

Shoes Worn in the Aran Islands

Lobster Pots Made From Sticks

Furniture Made From Straw

Cradle Made from Sticks

Horse Collar Made from Homemade Rope

Part of a Thatched Roof

Horse Saddle Made from Homemade Rope

Straw Hats

Currach Boat

Patch of Shamrocks













































After leaving the museum, we had a rest stop in a small town at the tip of Killary Fjord.  This was our first real look at the beauty of Connemara.  The fjord borders County Mayo and the mountains of Mweelrea and Ben Gorm to the north and county Galway and the Mumturk Mountains to the south.  In spite of a somewhat overcast day, the views were wonderful.

 

Killary Fjord

Killary Fjord








Later in the afternoon we arrived in Clifden where our hotel, the Clifden Station House, is located near one of the six great national parks in Ireland.  After getting settled in our room, our Trip Leader took us on a short walking tour around the neighborhood where the hotel is located.  That night we went with several of our traveling companions to Ravi’s Bar noted for its Irish music.  We first had a seafood dinner with Bill enjoying his oysters on the half-shell.  By the time the music started it was about 8:30 and the bar was crowded and very noisy.  We listened to a few songs by two young men, but then decided we had had enough of the loud voices that seemed to drown out the music.