Thursday, February 21, 2019

Blog 3 -- Melbourne




Melbourne, the capital of the southern state of Victoria and second most populated city (after Sydney), appears to be a modern, vibrant cosmopolitan city and is considered by many to be the most European city in Australia.  Parts of it have been compared to Paris with its leafy eastern section of Collins St, while others say it reminds them of New York with its high-rise buildings.  But what makes Melbourne unique are the more than 230 laneways (narrow lanes) within the center of the city that contain world-class restaurants, bars and street art on the sides of the buildings.  I do know that it is as noisy as most US cities with its trains, trams, trolleys, buses and cars.

Sporting events also dominate the every day life of people living in Melbourne.  On the outskirts of the city are located large sporting venues for AFL football (our soccer), cricket and horse racing.  And in March of every year, the F1 racing opens its season with the Melbourne Grand Prix.  In fact, there are almost as many public holidays devoted to sporting events as there are to religion (e.g. the day of the Melbourne Cup horse race and the Friday before the AFL football Grand Final are holidays).

Making a right-hand turn in Melbourne (called a Hook Turn) is rather unique.  In order to make a right-hand turn, you must move over to the farthest left lane (remember Australians drive on the left side of the street).  You must have your right turn blinker on.  When your street has the green light, you then drive across the intersecting street (the one you want to turn right onto) to the farthest left lane and wait there until this street gets the green light.  You then can make your right-hand turn (the cars waiting to cross the intersection from this street must yield to the turning cars).  This is done as trams run down the middle of the street, and you cannot block a tram when you want to turn right.  So see, New Jerseyites – jug handle turns are not that bad!

Today we begin our 2-month odyssey through Australia, Tasmania and New Zealand in earnest with a Parliament/Pub walking tour.  Our first stop was the Melbourne Sea Life that was not on our original tour, but the tour company that is taking us to the Great Ocean Highway and Phillips Island gave us a free admission to the Sea Life.  It was an interesting aquarium that included fish and sea life in the Great Barrier Reef and in the ocean around Melbourne.  The stingrays were huge as was the salt-water crocodile – I certainly would not want to run into one of them in the water!  There was also a very interesting Penguin exhibit that featured King and Gentoo penguins.  There were three in a separate area – a male that was keeping a 15-day chick warm and a nesting pair that had a chick that was even younger.

Pig-nosed Turtle

Manta Ray

One large salt-water croc

Gentoo penguins

Gentoo enjoying the water

Molting Gentoo

King Penguins

King Penguin and chick
Parliament Building

From the aquarium, we went to the Parliament Building, but unfortunately for us it was not open to the public – Parliament was in session so it was closed.  The Parliament House was built between 1856 and 1930 and is where both houses of Victoria’s Parliament – the Legislative Assembly and Legislative Council – still meet today.




We then walked to the Old Treasury Building, now a museum, where we learned about the origins of Melbourne up through WWI.  One of the interesting facts is that the building was designed by a 19 year old -- John James Clark in 1857.  In the basement were the old concrete bank vaults.  Several rooms dealt with “the Nation Divided” – the argumentative debate over conscription during WWI.  It was soundly defeated both times it was brought up for vote.  One of the interesting items was a poem, seemingly written by a mother who had voted “yes” and now regretting her vote:



St. Patrick's Cathedral
From the Old Treasury Building we walked down the street to St. Patrick’s Cathedral with its towering twin spires.  Built in 1897, the spires were not completed until 1939.

From the Cathedral, we walked over to the Windsor Hotel, located just across the street from the Parliament Building. Opened in 1883, it was considered the most opulent hotel in Melbourne.  Inside the hotel is the Cricketers Bar, a bar filled with memorabilia of cricket.  We went in for a drink (I had a very good Sauvignon Blanc while Bill had a local pale ale).  They had a game of cricket on the TV, but I’ll be darned if we could understand it – it didn’t seem to matter what team was up to bat, both teams kept accumulating points and then losing points.  I once tried to read a “Cricket for Dummies” that I found on the internet, but you need to be a very smart “dummy” to understand the game.

Cricketer Bar

Enjoying a drink at Madam Brussels Baar


From the Cricketer Bar we walked around the corner and quickly came to the rooftop Madame Brussels Bar – are you beginning to see a pattern in our walk today???  It was located in what was once the Red-Light District of Melbourne.  Although this bar was never an original brothel, it is themed in a naughty garden party style.  We each had another drink and shared an appetizer of pastry-wrapped sausage. 

Fortunately for us (or we may never have found our way back to our hotel), the remaining two bars on our walking tour did not open until 6 PM.  One, the Croft Institute, is located down a very bright graffiti-painted alley.  The alley fits right in with the theme of the Croft Institute – designed to resemble an insane asylum.

Alley leading to Croft Institute


With no more bars to visit, we walked to the Shanghai Dumpling House to sample their wares.  Bill had a Chinese beer while I had a very mediocre white wine.  However, the vegetarian egg rolls and fried prawn dumplings were very good.  From there we walked about six blocks to our hotel – a very interesting first day in Melbourne.



Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Blog 2-Australia – Our Journey Begins (20 February 2019)


Our journey started in Chicago (after a flight from Denver to Chicago on 17 February) with a flight on Air Canada to Vancouver.  In Vancouver, we connected with our non-stop flight to our first stop down under – Melbourne, Australia.  The Vancouver Airport was gaily decorated for the Chinese New Year.


From what I have read, Australia is a land of surprises and underrated and underappreciated wonders.  Most of the rest of the world little knows nor cares about what happens in Australia, although the internet has served to broaden people’s knowledge of this country.  Although many Australians still refer to their country as a “young country,” they are beginning to realize and appreciate the culture of the its first occupants – the Aborigines – and the long, long past associated with these people.  Although it is a large country, its population is small and mainly confined to the large cities along the coast.  Much of Australia is barren desert.  It is a very peaceful, stable country where not much happens (except perhaps some terrible wild fires in the last few years).

As most of you know, Australia is not only a country, but also a continent – the only one that is both.  It is the sixth largest country and also the only continent that is an island (oh and by the way—Australia is the largest island in the world).  As we prepared for this trip, I read a very fun, interesting, and easy to read travel book – In a Sunburned Country by Bill Bryson.  It is not like most travel books, but it does recount his journey across the country and is filled with a lot of fun-filled facts and anecdotes of people and places that he encounters along his journey.  I highly recommend it.

Some of the interesting facts that he mentions about Australia include:
  • ·         It is home to the largest living thing on earth – the Great Barrier Reef
  • ·         It is home to the largest monolith – Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock)
  • ·         It has more poisonous and deadly living things to include

The most poisonous snakes – of the world’s ten most poisonous snakes all are found in Australia.  Australia has 14 species of poisonous snakes with the Taipan being the deadliest – it is 50 times more lethal than the cobra.  Now, those that really know me, must be wondering why in the world I would go there, and after reading this book and all those posts on Facebook and on news feeds about the snakes of Australia, I am also questioning my sanity.  But it is on our bucket list, so I will persevere.
o    The funnel web spider, box jellyfish (the world’s most-deadliest animal), blue-ringed octopus, paralysis tick, and the stone fish are all the most lethal of their species, and you guessed it – they are all found in Australia.
o    Even certain species of caterpillars and seashells pack a potent punch.
o   The seas and oceans around the country contain sharks and very hazardous rip currents.  And many rivers are no better as they are infested with crocodiles.
  • ·         Temperatures in the barren outback and deserts can reach 118 degrees F, although just a few weeks ago during an extreme heat wave, the temperature in Adelaide was a sweltering 121.1 degrees F. (snakes were trying to cool off in people’s showers and toilets!).
  • ·         Many of the oldest objects found on earth (fossils, animal tracks, rocks) have come from Australia.
  • ·         About 45,000-60,000 years ago (long before Europeans conquered the oceans), Aborigines sailed from the Polynesian islands across the ocean in small boats to settle in Australia.
  • ·         80% of all animals and plants that live in Australia do not exist anywhere else.
  • ·         With the exception of Antarctica, it is the most climatically challenged continent – the driest, flattest, hottest, most desiccated, and infertile.
  • ·         And everything about Australia is polar opposite from us – its seasons are reversed, its constellations are upside down, and you even lose an entire day on your journey down-under.  You do, however, gain back that day on your homeward trek – you can even arrive at your home destination before you take off from Australia (or New Zealand in our case).


Australia is comprised of 6 states (listed with their major city) and 10 federal territories – South Australia (Adelaide); Victoria (Melbourne); New South Wales (Sydney); Queensland (Cairns or Brisbane); Western Australia (Perth); and Tasmania (Hobart).   The best known of the territories are the Northern Territories (Darwin) and Australian Capital Territory (Canberra, the capital of Australia).

Australia has more species of native flora and fauna than any other country.  In fact, Western Australia and the outback are so isolated and basically unexplored, that there very well may be many more undiscovered species.  One of the greatest problems facing the eco system of Australia today was the introduction of non-native animals and plants into the country.  In the state of Victoria, the introduction of 24 rabbits (for sporting purposes by one landowner) so decimated the plants and trees, that much of Victoria today is a barren wilderness.  Blackberries, introduced in the late 1800s, are now Victoria’s most pernicious weed – literally taking over the landscape.  And the introduction of animals such as fox, goats, pigs, water buffalo, and dogs have had a devastating effect on the native animals – about 130 native mammals are now on the threatened and endangered list.  The lesson to be learned here – non-native species seem to thrive in Australia.

Most of the original cities in Australia (with the exception of Adelaide) were founded as penal colonies for convicts from Great Britain.  The Gold Rush of the 1850’s finally put an end to the penal colony era of Australia.  However, after the Landing Flat riots in 1861 where white citizens beat up Chinese immigrants over rights to a gold mine, Australia adopted the White Australia policy that forbade the immigration of non-European people until the 1970’s.  During WWI, Australia, fighting with New Zealand and the British, had a casualty rate (in proportion to their population) of 65%, the highest of any country participating in the war.  Out of a population of just under 5 million, 60,000 soldiers were killed and another 150,000 injured.  And until 1949, Australians were not citizens of Australia, but citizens of Great Britain.


So, with all this “important” information firmly implanted in our minds, we bravely walked off our airplane in Melbourne after a 24-hour flight from Chicago (Melbourne is 18 hours ahead of Denver).  We are ready to enjoy the wonder and beauty that is Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand, but I may be enjoying it from the train or the bus if I encounter any of the slithering reptiles.  And yes, I did bring a 2-gallon zip-lock bag and lavender to put my shoes in overnight lest a spider or one of their very small (but deadly) snakes decides my shoe makes a good bed!  Arrival in Melbourne went very smoothly.  They have a system similar to our Global Entry called Smart Gate kiosks.  The scanner reads your passport (as long as it is an e-Passport, gives you a ticket to turn into the Customs officials) and then you go and get your luggage.  Because we had declared that we had our medicine with us, our bags had to be sniffed by a Customs’ dog, but that only took 5 minutes.  Then it was off to the SkyBus for our trip into the city to the Southern Cross Train Station.  That is only 2 short blocks from our hotel, the Quality Hotel on Batman Hill located within the CBD (Central Business District).  As our room would not be ready until 2 PM, we decided to take a ride on the free Central City trolley.  It makes stops at many locations on the border pf the CBD so it was a good orientation of Melbourne.  Then we had a quick lunch at a restaurant near the hotel before returning to our room for some much needed rest/sleep (even with lie-flat seats, you do not get a very restful sleep). Tomorrow we will  begin our real exploration of Melbourne.













Pre-Tour of Australia
1
2
3
4
1        US to Melbourne
2        Melbourne to Adelaide
3        Adelaide to Darwin (The Ghan)
4        Darwin to Melbourne

 















































OAT Tour of Tasmania and Australia
To New Zealand
1
2
3
5
6
7
1        Melbourne to Hobart                          5    Uluru to Great Barrier Reef
2        Launceston to Melbourne                   6    Great Barrier Reef to Sydney
3        Melbourne to Alice Springs                7    Sydney to Wellington, NZ
       4    Alice Springs to Uluru
4