16 October 2023 Luxembourg

16 October 2023                    Luxembourg

While our ship was sailing back to Bernkastel  we took the optional full-day tour to Luxembourg, one of the smallest countries in the world with a territory of less than 1,000 square miles.  Located between Belgium, France, and Germany, it is a constitutional monarchy  Founded in 963, it became the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg and an independent state under the Netherlands in 1815.  After agreeing to remain in perpetual neutrality, Luxembourg became fully independent in 1867.  However, after being overrun by Germany in both WWI and WWII, Luxembourg entered into the Benelux Customs Union and Nation in 1948, thus ending its neutrality.  It became one of the six founding counties of the European Union in 1957.

After we arrived, we had a walking tour of Luxembourg City, visiting the Monument of Remembrance, the Palais of the Grand Duke of Luxembourg, and the Notre-Dame Cathedral.  Unfortunately, we did not have a good local guide.  She kept walking way ahead of the group and even lost one of our group in the Notre Dame Cathedral.  The two Trip Leaders that were with us had to go and find the poor lady.

Our first stop was to the Monument of Remembrance, usually known by its nickname Gelle Fra (or Golden Lady), a war memorial dedicated to the Luxembourgers who served with the Allied Forces during World War I.  In the center of the memorial is a 69’ granted obelisk topped with a gilded gold statue of a woman holding a laurel wreath.   At the base of the obelisk are two bronze soldiers, one lying dead while the other sits morning his dead compatriot.  The monument was erect in 1923, but when the Nazis captured Luxembourg in WWII, they took down the monument.  Several pieces were rescued and the monument was partially restored after the war.  But the Gold Lady remained missing until January 1980 when she was found hidden beneath the stands of the national football stadium.  The monument was fully restored in 1984 and additions were made to also honor those who served in WWII and Korea.  It was unveiled to the public on 23 June 1985, Luxembourg’s national holiday.

There are some beautiful views of the gorge and landscape below the monument and the Pont Adolphe Bridge, a double-decked arch bridge that was built between 1900-1903.  At the time, this was the biggest stone arch bridge in the world, measuring 279’ wide, 138’ high, and 502’ long.

Historic Bank Building

Luxembourg Skyline 

Pont Adolphe Bridge

Monument of Remembrance

From here it was a short walk up to the Notre Dame Cathedral, the only Roman Catholic Cathedral in Luxembourg.  It was originally built as a Jesuit Church between 1613-1621 to serve as the church for their college.  In 1773, the Jesuits left Luxembourg and the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria gifted the church to the city and it was renamed Saint Nicolas et Sante Therese and replaced the old, decrepit parish church.  There is still a statue of Saint Nicolas over the entrance to the church.  In 1801 the church was dedicated to Saint Peter, and in 1848 it was renamed “Notre Dame.”  In June 1870, Luxembourg was elevated to a bishopric by Pope Pius IX and the church became a Cathedral.  Although the cathedral is primarily of late gothic architecture, there are still many Renaissance elements and decorations.

In the crypt below the church are the tombs of John the Blind, King of Bohemia and Count of Luxembourg, and the Grand Dukes and Dutchesses of Luxembourg.

Between the Cathedral and the Palace is the Statue of Grand Duchess of Luxembourg Charlotte who reigned from 1919-1964. She is buried in Notre Dame Cathedral. 

Notre Dame Cathedral

Statue of Virgin Mary Outside Cathedral

Altar of Cathedral

Stained Glass Window

Statue of Virgin Mary Inside Cathedral

Paintings Inside Cathedral

Side Altar Dedicated to St. Joseph,
Protector of the Cathedral

Statue of Grand Duchess of Luxembourg Charlotte

Not far from the Cathedral is the Palais of the Grand Duke, the official residence of the royal family (the Grand Duke and Dutchess).  The building was actually the Town Hall until it formally became a palace and seat of government in 1815.  Today the current royal family uses it only for state business as they prefer to live at Berg Castle which is located about 18 miles from the city.  The Palace can only be visited during the summer months.

Palais of the Grand Ducke

Standing Guard at the Palace

Our last stop on the walking tour was St. Michael’s Church, the oldest surviving religious site in the City.  Built in the 13^th century, on the site of a church dating back to 987, it was dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel.  The church has been rebuilt and renovated several times with the current building dating back to 1688.  Its style merges both the Romanesque and Baroque architectural styles.

As we were walking to the main square and the restaurant where we were served lunch, we caught a glimpse of the ruins of the Bock Casemates – miles of tunnels that made up a sub-terrain defense system, carved out of rock in the 17^th century.   These tunnels were part of a fortress that had been built in the 10^th century on a rocky promontory called The Bock.  Over the many years, the fortress was expanded and improved by each succeeding owner.  The fortress was destroyed in the 19^th century and only the Bock Casemates remain.

Church of St. Michael

Altar Inside the Church

Stained Glass Window

Mechanical Device for the Turret Clock

Ruins of the Bock Casements

After lunch we returned to our bus for the next part of our trip – a solemn visit to the Luxembourg American Cemetery.  In September 1944, American forces began the liberation of Luxembourg from German occupation.  In an attempt to stop the American and other Allied troops, Hitler began an offensive in the Ardennes that became known as the Battle of the Bulge.  Considered by Winston Churchill to be “the greatest American battle of the Second World War” the battle lasted from December 16, 1944 to January 28, 1945, with American troops suffering tremendous losses.  Many of our dead soldiers are buried in this cemetery. 

Arriving at the cemetery, we had to hurry our tour as they were expecting an American diplomate to arrive at 2 PM.  There were already secret service personnel “casing the area.”  Although we were never told who the diplomate was, a google search revealed the Janet Yellen, Secretary of the Treasury, was in Luxembourg for a meeting so we can assume that she was the diplomate. 

At the cemetery we did a short memorial service for the military personnel that had died there.  Those of us who were military veterans were invited to stand close to the Memorial Chapel and Bill had the honor of laying a small wreath by the memorial.  It was a very touching tribute to those who had died.  Inside the chapel are stained glass windows with the Army insignia that represents the men and woman who are buried here.

American Cemetery in Luxembourg

Memorial Chapel

Stained Glass with Army Insignia

Inside the Chapel

The area where the graves are located is 17 acres of manicured lawn and is surrounded by 22 acres of woods.  On either side of the Memorial Chapel are two pylons facing each other.  The pylons contain maps depicting the battle movements of the Battle of the Bulge and on the reverse side, names 371 servicemen who are buried here but are in unmarked graves.  A total of 5,070 service members are buried here.

Names of Servicemen buried in Unmarked Graves

Map of Battle of the Bulge

After the ceremony, a guide took us through the cemetery pointing out the graves of some of the people that we might have recognized.  Of course, the most famous person buried here was General George S. Patton.  Other tombs included two Medal of Honor winners, the only woman buried here – a 2 Lt nurse who was killed in a jeep accident, two sets of brothers, and five members of the Band of Brothers.

Cemetery

Cemetery

General George S. Patton's Grave

Grave of a Medal of Honor Recipient

Grave of the Only Woman Buried Here

Grave of an Unknown Soldier

Luxembourg American Cemetery

We then returned to the ship which was now docked in Bernkastel following its cruise down the Mosel River.  That night we sailed back into the Rhine River toward our next stop Cochem.  

Egyptian Goose in Park Near our Ship

Last Look at Bernkastel Castle