The Trip That Keeps Growing: 3 September 2023 Naples Walking Tour

3 September 2023 Naples Walking Tour

Today we set out to discover Naples. I am finally recovered from stomach problems, but not at 100% so we will take it easy and rest often. From our hotel we walked to the nearby University Metro Station located on the side of a very busy and somewhat chaotic circle that has the Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II in its center. Vittorio Emanuele II unified Italy and became the first king of the newly independent and united Italy in 1871. He is buried in the Pantheon in Rome. Note: if you think our roundabouts are bad in the US, this one has them all beat. It has 4 spokes and in addition to the cars and buses trying to merge around the circle, there is also a myriad of mot0rcycles, mopeds, bicycles and even motorized scooters all converging on one location.

From the station we took the subway to the Toledo Metro Station. It has been nominated as the most beautiful transit station in Europe. It was part of the Art Stations project designed to bring art into people’s daily lives. Outside the station stand three hexagonal pyramids and a steel statue, the Knight of Toledo, stands guard over its entrance. In addition to the beautiful artwork that line its walls, it is one of the deepest stations in Naples at 130 feet underground. Each level of the station has a different color that represents the theme of that level. The centerpiece of the station, however, is the Crater de Lux (cone of light). Located above the escalators, it is a bright, funnel-shaped mosaic structure that draws light from outside the station and is further enhanced by an accompanying LED installation that is called Relative Light.

Level 1 (first floor) is black representing the asphalt of the city’s life. Also on this floor are the remains of the ancient wall, while mosaic tiles depict historical scenes, including St. Gennara leading a procession and the construction of the subway system.

The first floor is black, representing the asphalt of busy city life. Remains of ancient walls are included on the first floor. The atrium is decorated with mosaic tiles that depict historical scenes. One scene shows St. Gennaro, Naple's patron saint, leading a procession.

The next level down is yellow and ochre, representing the bright sun and volcanic tuff. It also has a display depicting the construction of the subway. As you descend further, the walls change to blue and green, representing the sea round Naples. On the floor of the last level is an 80-foot LED light display that shows the image of the sea with continuous waves.

From the station we walked out to Toledo Street, one of several ancient streets in the Old Town of Naples dating back to 1536. Measuring just 2/3 of a mile, it runs North to South and is home to many of Naples’ historical buildings. On this pedestrian-only street you will also find many of Naples boutique shops along with the Galleria Umberto, one of the most popular and beautifully designed shopping centers in Italy. As it was a Sunday morning, the street was crowded by people and vendors – I guess a lot of people enjoy walking in the sunshine rather than sitting in church. Fanning out from Toledo Street are tiny little alleyways that were also crowded with people and little shops and cafes.

Toledo Street leads right into the Piazza del Plebiscito. The largest square in Naples, named after the plebiscite that unified Italy in 1860, it was created by Napoleon’s brother-in-law Joachim Murat who became King of Naples after the defeat of the Bourbon rulers in 1861. In creating the square, he had an ancient abbey and church demolished. Fifteen years later, the Bourbons regained control after Napoleon’s defeat and they had the square finished.

As we approached the Piazza we walked by the huge Galleria Umberto I (named for the King of Italy Umberto I), a public shopping center built between 1887 and 1891. Designed to be both a residential and commercial complex, it has one of the largest glass roofs in the world topped by a 184-feet tall arched dome. The structure is in the shape of a cross, with Zodiac mosaics at the center of the floor. The first and second floors have shops, cafes and business offices, while the third floor contains residential apartments. The Galleria Umberto is the setting of the book, The Gallery, by John Horne Burns about life in occupied Naples in 1944 after World War II.

Semi-circular in shape, the Piazza del Plebiscito is bounded by the Royal Palace on one end and the church of San Francesco di Paola (Basilica Royal) on the other. In front of the church are two equestrian statues of the Bourbon kings Ferdinad I and Charles II. The square also contains two other palaces – Palazzo Salerno and Palazzo della Prefettura. There is also a statue dedicated to Charles III of Spain.

Following WWII, the square was neglected and even became a parking lot. It was restored to its previous beauty in 1997 in preparation for the G7 summit that was held in Naples.

The portico of the church of San Francesco di Paola sits on six columns and two Ionic pillars. The church is circular with two side chapels with a dome, modeled after the pantheon in Rome that is 174 feet high.

The star attraction of Piazza del Plebiscito is the Royal Palace, built between 1616 and 1644 in the Renaissance style and the residence of the Spanish rulers in Naples until 1734. Charles of Bourbon, the new ruler, also decided to use the palace as his residence and had the palace renovated in the Baroque style. When Italy became unified in 1860, it became the residence of House of Savoy, the head of the new Italian state, but was only frequently used. Eight new statues have been added to the façade, each representing the most illustrious sovereigns of the dynasties that had ruled over Naples. They are (left to right) Roger the Norman, Frederick II of Svevia, Charles of Anjou, Alphonse of Aragon, Charles V, Charles III of Bourbon, Murat and Victor of Savoy. Finally in 1818, Victor Emmanuel III of Savoy gave the palace to Naples and it became part of the National Library.

Looking up from the piazza, you can the Castel Sant'Elmo, a medieval military fortress located on top of the mountain Vomero. It is said to have the best view of Naples, however, one look at the hill leading up to the fortress was enough to deter us from wandering up there. We will take their word for it and just enjoy the views around the waterfront!

Inside the Palace is a double staircase, called the staircase of honor and considered one of the most beautiful in Europe. It leads to the Historical Apartment, laid out as a museum, with many rooms including the Court Theater, the Throne Room, the Royal Chapel with its large 18^th century Nativity scene, and living areas complete with the original furniture, furnishings, and beautiful artwork. Here one can go back in time to discover the lavish lifestyle of the Kings and Queens that lived here. The Palace was very crowded and the weather has turned very hot (after a delightfully cool past few days that I unfortunately spent in bed). We decided not to visit the Palace but walk instead down to Naple’s waterfront. Along the way we stopped at a little café to rest and enjoy our first gelato of the trip. Gelato always makes a person feel better!

On the waterfront is the Fountain of Giant. Created in out of marble in 1601, the Fountain is considered one the most beautiful fountains in Naples. Originally placed next to the Royal Palace, it has been in its present location along the waterfront since 1905. It is called the Fountain of Giant because when it was located at the Royal Palace, it stood next to a colossal ancient statue known as il Gigante (or Giant). It has three round arches with the heraldic symbols of former rulers of the Kingdom of Italy on top. In the center of the middle arch (the tallest of the three) is a cup held up by two marine animals. The statues in the other two arches represent river divinities holding two sea monsters in their hands.

From the Fountain it was a short walk to the Castel dell’Ova, Naples’s seafront “Egg Castle.” Naples oldest standing fortress, the original structure was built during the 6^th century on a tiny island (today it is a peninsula) in the Gulf of Naples. Today’s fortress was built by the Normans in the 12^th century. Its unusual name (Egg Castle) is derived from a legend about the medieval Roman poet Virgil who was considered a great sorcerer and predictor of the future. It was said that Virgil placed a magical egg into the foundation to support the castle. According to the legend, had the egg been broken, Naples would have suffered through a series of disastrous events. Throughout its history the castle has been a fortress, royal residence and a prison. The top of the castle is now a platform for views of Naples, the Mediterranean Sea, and Mount Vesuvius. The best time for viewing is when the sun is setting. Unfortunately the Castle was closed today.

By this time we had really begun to feel the heat, so we opted to take a taxi back to our room. There the room was cool and the bed very inviting, so after a quick cool shower it was time to relax and get a little sleep to rejuvenate our bodies. Tomorrow will be another day of walking!