Monday, April 1, 2019

Blog 22 – Sydney



Sydney is the capital of New South Wales and the largest city in Australia.  The name Sydney, so designated by Captain Arthur Phillip, was originally only meant to apply to the cove into which Phillip and his ship sailed.  Capt. Phillip had been sent on a mission to find new colonies for Great Britain after they lost their American colonies.  He first sailed into what is now Botany Bay on the south eastern coast of Australia, but it was not as safe as he had been led to believe.  He then sailed up the coast and on 26 Jan 1788 (today known as Australia Day), discovered what is now one of the greatest harbors in the World and founded the first city (or penal colony) in Australia.  Phillip had wanted the town he founded to be called Albion, but that name never stuck.  The name Sydney came from Phillip’s immediate master, Thomas Townshead, the first Baron Sydney, who was also the home and colonial secretary. 

Prior to our arrival at the Cairns airport we made a stop at Rex Lookout to admire the beautiful coastline of northern Queensland.  The beaches are pristine and the water a perfect blue – there is one problem – “salties” (crocodiles) inhabit these waters and therefore you cannot swim in them.  Well you could if you do not value your limbs or life! 
Beautiful coastline of Queensland


Our flight from Cairns to Sydney was the best flight so far.  It was on an Airbus 330 with plenty of room.  We arrived in Sydney at 4 PM and by 5:15 we were at our hotel, The Sydney Boulevard Hotel.  Although the evening meal was not included in our tour, Ben had made a reservation at a local pub and we all decided to join him.  He took us for a short orientation walk through Hyde Park which is about 3 blocks from the hotel.  We then walked to the Lord Roberts Hotel where we had a wonderful dinner.  I had a fish burger and Bill had a chicken schnitzel. 

Friday was our day to discover Sydney.  Our day started at 7:45 with a bus tour around some of the scenic bays of Sydney.  Our first stop was at Mrs. Macquarie’s Chair where we had an iconic view of the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbor Bridge.  Mrs. Macquarie’s Chair was a chair and steps that were chiseled out of a cliff at the end of a promontory point that looked out over the harbor.  Mrs. Macquarie was the wife of one of the early colony’s governor who liked to watch the ships as they sailed into Sydney harbor.
Iconic view of Opera House and Harbor Bridge

Mrs. Macquarie's Chair











From there we drove around some of the most beautiful (and expensive) homes that have been built around the little coves off the harbor.  We left the bus at the Gap, an area where there was a nice walking path along the coastline of Sydney.  The scenic views of the high cliffs and rocks with the ocean below were so worth the walk (which really was not difficult – it was all downhill).  From there we walked across Robertson Park (Sydney has lots of little parks scattered throughout the city) to the ferry dock in Watson’s Bay where we caught a ferry to Circular Quay.  Watson’s Bay was the oldest fishing village in Australia, founded in 1788.
Island that was once a prison

Beauty view of  Sydney Harbor

One of the many beautiful coves around the Harbor

Cliff's along our coastline walk

Watson's Bay




























Circular Quay is the location where Capt. Phillips and the First Fleet first set foot in Australia and  built the first penal colony.  It has one of the best views in the world, looking out at the harbor with the Opera Sydney House and its gleaming white sail-tiled roof on the right, and to the left the magnificent Harbor Bridge (which can be seen from every corner of Sydney).  And in the waters in front of you are old-fashioned ferries and sail boats.  The Sydney harbor is 16 miles long, but there are so many little inlets and coves, that its actual shoreline is 152 miles.

The Harbor Bridge is 1650’ long.  When it was built between 1923 and 1932, it was designed to be the world’s longest single arch bridge, but unfortunately, two weeks before the bridge was completed, New York’s Bayonne Bridge opened and it was 25 inches longer than the Harbor Bridge.  And yes, you can walk atop the bridge – if you have a death wish!  You do have a harness that is tethered to the bridge and it will only cost you about $240.
You can just make out the people walking on top of the bridge


After disembarking the ferry, we walked around Circular Quay where little round bronze plaques show the original shoreline from 1788.  Our destination was the Sydney Opera House; perhaps Australia’s most iconic building and the youngest UNESCO Heritage Site.
Plaques marking original shoreline

Sidney Opera House from the water











Planning for the Opera House actually began in the late 1940’s when the Director of the New South Wales Conservatorium of Music began lobby the government to build a venue capable of housing theatrical and musical productions.  In 1955, a request for architectural designs was released and they received 233 entries.  The winning design was done by Jorn Utzon of Denmark.

The design of the Sydney Opera House was very controversial when the design was first announced, especially what appeared to be the white sails of its roof.  But, in fact, they “were not designed to be sails, but to be sections of a sphere.”  Before actual construction could take place, engineers had to take the drawings and determine how to take the design from the paper to an actual building.  And during the actual construction there was a lot of in-fighting between the engineers and the architect.  A change in the government in 1963 resulted in criticism about the project’s costs and the new governor’s opinion that the design was impractical.  In 1966 Utzon resigned and Peter Hall was tasked with the job of finishing the project.  It finally opened on 20 October 1973.  Taking 15 years to complete (it was planned to take 3 years), it has since become an iconic emblem of the city and a source of pride among its citizens, especially for its perfect acoustics.  The Boardwalk (or walkway) around the Opera House offers some of the most beautiful views of the harbor and bridge.  As a side note, Jorn Utzon never returned to Sydney and never saw his design in person.

We had tour inside the Opera House.  What an incredible building it is!  It has over 1000 rooms, and several large performance halls including the Concert Hall, which seats over 2000 people.  The organ alone cost over $2,000,000 and has over 10,000 pipes.


Looking up at the inside one of the sails

Inside the Opera House

Close-up of the sails

Concert Hall and organ

From the Opera House we walked around Circular Quay to the Modern Art Building for lunch.  We had a beautiful view of the harbor with its many ferries and the large Royal Caribbean Explorer of the Seas that was leaving today on a repositioning cruise to Singapore.

After lunch we met another guide who took us for a walking tour of The Rocks, a small conclave close to the Sydney Harbor and nestled next to the Harbor Bridge.  Once the rowdy home of sailors and ex-convicts, it has been renovated into a respectable neighborhood of restaurants, boutiques, and galleries.  The first homes were constructed shortly after Sydney’s penal colony was established and were used to house the convicts.  These buildings were constructed of wattle and daub, with thatched roofs.  Wattle refers to a type of construction where the thin branches of the acacia tree were woven tightly together between upright stakes forming a woven lattice.  Daub refers to the sticky material (usually a combination of wet soil, clay, sand, animal dung, and straw) that was then put over the woven lattice.  Later the homes were made of sandstone.  One reminder of its former notoriety is the Lord Nelson, the city’s oldest continuously operating pub.  The first stop on our tour was the Cadman’s Cottage which was built in 1816.
Cadman's Cottage

One of the oldest buildings in The Rocks

Street made of blocks of wood

Remains of a house built into the cliffs in the Rocks



















Tonight was a free night.  Many of the group had made plans to attend a play or concert at the Sydney Opera House.  We tried to get tickets to the play but it was sold out, so we just had a quiet night at the hotel.

Saturday (our last in Sydney) was a free day.  We left the hotel about 9:30 and went first to an electronics store to buy a new camera and a charging cable for Bill’s iPad.  With those purchases made (at least we will get the taxes back at the airport) we walked to the Anzac Memorial in Hyde Park. 


Obelisk in Hyde Park

Kookaburra in a tree


ANZAC Memorial
Inside the ANZAC Memorial
From there we walked down toward Darling Harbor and the Chinese Garden of Friendship.  What a serene and beautiful oasis in the middle of cosmopolitan Sydney.  You enter the garden through the Hall of Clear Shade and into the Courtyard of Welcoming Fragrance.  (I’m harking back to our walk through the Forbidden City in Beijing with all these unique and colorful names).  Inside the garden you will find bamboo, Himalayan Cedar trees, cascading waterfalls, carvings, hidden sculptures, a lake filled with lotus flowers and colorful koi, weeping willow trees, and many pavilions.  We also saw several Eastern Water Dragons and large carp in the ponds.

The garden contains examples of the principles of “Yin-Yang” and the five opposing elements of earth, fire, water, metal, and wood.  The garden has many examples – rocks defying gravity, contrast of rushing waterfalls against a still lake, short, soft mondo grass below long-stemmed bamboo.
Chinese Garden of Friendship

Eastern Water Dragon

Koi in a pond

Chinese Garden of Friendship

Chinese Garden of Friendship

Chinese Garden of Friendship

Chinese Garden of Friendship

Chinese Garden of Friendship








































At the same area as the Friendship Gardens was the Thailand Grand Festival.  We stopped for a few minutes and saw many Thai women and children in their beautiful native costumes.  As it was a very hot and humid day, we left and walked back to the hotel, stopping at Happy Jacks (the name the company has to use in Australia as there was already a Burger King) for our lunch.  Along the walk back we saw the Sydney Town Hall and St. Mary's Cathedral.  Back at the hotel we packed up our suitcases (again!) as we have any early morning departure tomorrow and got ready for our Farewell Dinner.
Thailand Grand Festival

Sydney Town Hall

St. Mary's Cathedral
Our dinner was in Darling Harbor and it was very windy and cold.  Fortunately we were indoor but right along the waterfront.  Darling Harbor is the trendy part of town with lots of restaurants, hotels, convention centers, and boats in the harbor.  After several weeks of fish and chips, both Bill and I opted for the steak which was excellent.  Then it was back to the hotel to say goodbye to our guide for the last three weeks: Ben.  Ben was outstanding – he was funny, knowledgeable, and cool – nothing seemed to faze him – not the fog delays in Melbourne where 1/3 of his team were stranded in Sydney for a while, the bushfire in Uluru, and the threat of Cyclone Trevor.  It was sad to say goodbye, but he assured us we would be in good hands with Lindsay in New Zealand.  Ben will be at the airport with us in the morning, but he can only get us to security before he has to leave and travel by train to his home in Newcastle, about 2 hours north of Sydney.  His plans once he gets home – do laundry and go to sleep.  And he deserves it – he was one of the best guides we have had.  Lindsay has some outstanding boots to fill!


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