Wednesday, October 14, 2015

The Dalmation Coast Cruise (Part 1) -- Athens to Corfu


 
 

 Today is Thursday, 1 October.  It is hard to keep track of day and date – it just becomes a blur in your mind.  We are starting our tour with a bus ride through Athens.  Actually our tour started yesterday, but because of the varied arrival times of the rest of our travelers, the only thing we did yesterday was the welcome dinner at the hotel.  There are two groups of 24 travelers and each group has its own Trip Leader.  Or leader is Alan, and like Goran (the other leader), is from Zagreb, Croatia.  He has been with Grand Circle for about 11 years.  The first thing you notice about him is how tall he is – he would have made a good basketball player.  He has a very good command of the English language.  We will get to know the other 22 members of our group tomorrow on the bus (each group has their own bus).  There are still two couples who have not arrived – they are expected about midnight.  They are going to have a long day tomorrow as our luggage has to outside our rooms by 7:30 AM.
After breakfast we boarded our buses where we met our local guide Sohpia.  She had quite a sense of humor – I just wish I could remember all her jokes.  We drove through the center of Athens, stopping first at the site of the stadium built in 1896 for the first modern Olympic Games.  Marathon races end in the Stadium – after the Athenians defeated the Persians in the Battle of Marathon, they marched the 26 miles back to Athens to tell the Athenians of their victory.  Marathons commemorate the troops who defeated the Persians.
National Library, Athens
Honor Guard at Parliament Bldg

Stadium for Modern Olympic Games

 We then went to the Parliament House where we began our walking tour.  In front of the Parliament House was the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  It is constantly guarded by 2 ram-rod straight, serious, and motionless guards attired in their ceremonial uniforms.  They must stand perfectly still for 1 hour and every hour they have a changing of the guard ceremony.  There is also another soldier (in his regular uniform) who makes sure that passersby do not harass or annoy the guards.  It is permissible to have your picture taken next to the guard, but only one at a time and you cannot engage him in conversation.

Sophia pointed out three buildings built in the neo-classical style – the Academy of Science, the University of Greece, and the National Library.  They are side-by-side on the street.  We then walked through a shopping area where there is a Greek Orthodox Church.  The unique thing about this church is the little church to honor Mary adjoining it – it is made out of marble from other ruins.
Church of St Mary

We walked on Tripodon St, the oldest street in world (built 2500 years ago) until we came to the little square near the Acropolis.  There is a monument here to the Theater.  The unique thing here is that this is the place where tomatoes were first grown in Greece.  Our tour ended here and we were free to explore the Acropolis, the Acropolis Museum, or the shops.  We had about 2 hours free so Bill and I headed for the Museum.  It is new, built in 2007, and houses statues and relics from the Acropolis.  The 3rd floor is dedicated to the Parthenon, has the remains (and sometimes copies of the remains) of the statues and frescos that adorned the Parthenon. It was quite interesting.

Waterfront where we ate lunch
After getting back on the bus, we drove to a restaurant in Athens port city of Piraeus.  We had a lovely meal of salmon, sitting by the waterside.  We then drove to the port and boarded our ship, the MV Athena.

About an hour after boarding, we set sail.  The winds were up and it was a little rough at the beginning.  About 2 hours after leaving Athens we entered the Corinth Canal.  It is only 4 miles long and was cut through a narrow isthmus that linked Peloponnese to the mainland.  Periander (625-585 BC), the tyrant of Corinth, first had the idea of cutting through the isthmus.  He did not succeed, but he did construct the so-called Diolkos, a paved road with two parallel ruts in the middle, which ran overland across the isthmus.  Ships were positioned on a mechanism called “olkos” and were dragged across from one sea to the other by people or animals.   Emperor Nero in 67 AD attempted to dig a canal, but he only succeeded in digging a mile-long moat and twelve wells on the trail that the canal was to follow.  When, after 4 months Nero was recalled to Rome to deal with a revolt, work on the canal stopped.  It wasn’t until the 19th Century, following the success of Ferdinand de Lesseps in building the Suez Canal, that the Greek government signed a contract with the French to build a canal across the isthmus.  However, it wasn’t until 1881 that the work was assigned to a company under the control of the Hungarian General Tur.  Unfortunately that company went bankrupt.  The canal was finally finished in 1893 by the Greek Company of Corinth. The highest point from the bottom of the sea is 276 feet and the width is 80 feet.  The depth is about 25 feet.  When you look at the sheer rock cliffs that line the canal, you can understand why it took so long.  There are two low bridges on either end of the canal for local traffic and when boats come through, they lower the center section of the bridge so the boats can pass over them.  Once through the Canal, the winds picked up again and it became a rough sail.  I started eating dinner, but the restaurant is in the back of the ship and the combination of the boat’s rocking, the smell of diesel, and watching the wave action out the window was too much for me.  I went back to our cabin to lie down.  I finally fell asleep.
Entering the Corinth Canal


In the Corinth Canal

 









Water in the Canal

Sunset in the Canal










Our first stop was the little Greek fishing/port village of Itea which lies at the bottom of the mountain where Delphi is located.  Since we had just been to Delphi several days ago, we decided to just walk around the town and its waterfront promenade. 

I was feeling much better this morning.  Our ship actually docked at Itea around 11 PM last night so it was very stable this morning.  However, our room must be by one of the anchors because there were about three instances of very loud noises as they engaged the bow thrusters.  After that I slept well until it was time to get up for breakfast.  They have a very good breakfast buffet – much better than the St. George Hotel which charges 22 Euros for its buffet!

After everyone departed for Delphi, Bill and I left the ship and headed for Itea.  We walked to a beautiful Greek Orthodox Church in the center of the town.  We then walked along the waterfront promenade.  The water was crystal clear and you could little minnows, small black fish, and even a small gar.  All along the promenade were little cafes where the Greeks would sit and have their coffee.  After walking the promenade, we crossed the street and found a typical Greek open market (it is only open on Fridays so we were lucky).  There were fruit and vegetables vendors, venders selling bath and bedroom items, vendors selling clothes and household goods.  You could buy just about anything.  It was filled with Greek women and men doing their weekly shopping.  Bill saw some peaches which looked very good so we decided to buy one.  We put it in a bag and gave it to the vendor.  When he saw it was only one peach (and that we were not Greek), he just gave it to us.  The people in this town are very nice and laid back.  Not like in Athens.  Here you can actually cross the street without taking your life in your hands.  We then stopped at a shop that is run by an American (Alan had told us about it).  We had a nice conversation – he is planning to visit the US in November to see his son.  We bought a nice book on the Greek sites we had visited and he gave us some traditional Greek coffee.  It was good, but different than US coffee – stronger (you needed sugar) and the grounds were still on the bottom (you are told not to stir it).  We then headed back to our ship to take showers while the ship was motionless.  After leaving Itea, we sailed for about an hour until we came to he Rio-Antrion Bridge that connects the Peloponnese peninsula with the mainland. 
 

Greek Orthodox Church, Itea

Our Ship, the MV Athena










Farmers Market, Itea

Little Fish in Water by ship











Olive Tree, Itea

Lounge in our ship











Venetian Fortress near the Rio-Antrion Bridge

Sailing under Rio-Antrion Bridge











Our next port was the Greek island of Corfu. It is the most northern island in the Ionian Sea.  It gets a lot of rain from November-March and is the greenest island in Greece.  We arrived early in the morning and there was a brilliant sunrise as we cruised into the port.  As we sailed by, we were able to get beautiful views of the old fortress.  Throughout the years, Corfu has been inhabited by the Corinthians, Romans, Ottomans, Venetians, French, Russians, and British.
Sunrise in Corfu

Fortress in Corfu











After breakfast we departed for a bus trip to the 19th Century villa (Achillion) of Elizabeth (“Sisi”), Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary.   At the age of 16 (in 1837) she married Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria.  She first visited Corfu in 1861 when she was suffering from TB.  Elizabeth felt a kinship with the island and she visited it as often as possible.  In 1890 she commissioned the building of the villa after the suicide death of her only son Rudolph.  It was completed in 1891 and she came back to it every spring and fall.  It has beautiful gardens and two statues of her favorite Greek hero – Apollo.  From her gardens one can look across the bay and see Albania.  On 10 Sep 1898, at the age of 60, she was assassinated in Geneva, Switzerland.   The Palace was then bought by Wilhelm II of Germany.  During WWI it was used as a Headquarters and hospital by the Serbs, and again in WWII by the Germans.  Then it became a casino – the James Bond film “For Your Eyes Only” was filmed here.
Achillion, Corfu

Statue of Sisi













Royal Staircase in Palace

Beautiful Fireplace in Palace











Palace Gardens

Looking out at Albania











Statue of Achilles

Main Pedestrian Walkway in Corfu Town


After viewing the villa, our bus took us to Corfu Town where we saw the old Byzantine fortress that was reinforced by the Venetians.  In addition to the fortress, there is a 10th Century AD Byzantine Church – St. Spirion, patron Saint of Corfu due to all the miracles that are credited to him.  In fact, over 16,000 of the islands inhabitants are named Spiros or Spiridoula.  We also saw a palace (Sts. Michael and George) that was built by the British in 1840.  It has columns patterned after the columns in the Parthenon.  On the right of the church is an arch dedicated to the Angel Michael and on the left is the Arch of St. George.  We also saw the Mon Repos Palace where Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth’s husband, was born.  We then had time to walk around the town before returning to the ship for dinner.  After dinner, we had a performance by two Greek dancers.  It was a lot of fun and for the last dance they had us all up and dance with them.  Bed never looked so good!


Greek Dancers







Greek Dancers









 



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