Monday, November 8, 2021

 

Day 15&16           21-22 Oct 2020              Cairo – Old Cairo and Coptic Cairo and the Trip Home

Today, our last day in Egypt, began with a trip to some of the oldest parts of Cairo and where we learned about the Christian or Coptic sect in the country.  Coptic Cairo is the oldest part of the city, with a settlement here as early as the 6th century BCE.  It is considered a complex for the three religions – Christianity, Islam, and Judaism.  It is dominated by the Hanging Church that sits above the gatehouse of the Babylon Fortress, the Roman fortress of old Cairo.  The church itself does not hang from anything – the name comes from the fact that its nave is suspended over a passageway.  It was built in the 3rd – 4th century and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  It belongs to the Coptic Orthodox Church of Alexandria.  The Copts (as they are called) are the Middle East’s largest Christian community, making up about 9% of Egypt’s 80 million people.  According to Mito, Egypt does not discriminate any form of religion.  The Hanging Church was having a service when we first got there, so we enjoyed the beautiful mosaics painted on the walls leading to the church.  When the service ended, we were free to visit the church.  It was stunning inside.  We even saw a family that had just had their baby baptized.  Outside the church, we ran into a group of college students who are studying to be tour guides.  Of course, we all had to talk with them.

We then walked to the Church of St. Sergius where, in the basement, was a room where Mary, Joseph, and Jesus stayed after fleeing from King Herod’s wrath.  Also inside the church was the crypt of St. Bashnouan, a 12th century monk who was killed because he would not deny his Christian faith.  To get to the church we had to walk along a passageway inside the fortress that had the longest bookstore in Cairo.  Books of all types and languages lined the walls on both sides of the passageway

Unfortunately, Ben Ezla Synagogue, the oldest Jewish temple in Cairo was under renovation and we were unable to visit it.  Once a Christian church it was sold to Abraham Ben Ezra of Jerusalem in 882 AD.  At one time the Nile River flowed up to its foundation, and it is said that it was here among the reeds that the baby Moses was found.

Following our visit to Coptic Cairo, we drove to the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, the new home of the Royal mummies, which is located in the southern part of Cairo.  This museum just opened in April of this year.  It is the only museum in Egypt that gives an overview of all the historical periods of Egyptian history, and the only museum in the Arab world that focuses entirely on Ancient Egypt.  In a spectacular “Pharaohs’ Golden Parade” on 3 April 2021, 18 pharaohs (including perhaps the greatest pharaoh, Ramses II) and 4 queens were transported through Cairo from Tahrir Square along the River Nile to their new home in the National Museum.

The museum is quite extensive and covers the history of Egypt from the prehistoric up to the present.  In the prehistoric section there is a 35,000-year-old skeleton of a young boy.  But the highlight of the Museum is, of course, the new Mummy Room.  The mummies are kept in glass containers that keep them from deteriorating any further.  And in addition to the mummies, the individual rooms also contain the sarcophagi in which they were buried as well as a short biography of each individual mummy.  There is very little lighting, and no pictures are allowed.  It is truly amazing to be in the company of these pharaohs and queens after all these thousands of years.  Queen Hatshepsut is one of the mummies and it was interesting to see how small she really was – just about the size of a 10-year-old child.

Leaving the Museum, we headed to Cairo’s largest park for our luncheon.  This was the same park that Dahlia had taken us to on our last day with her.  After lunch a group of about 15 of our travelers left to go visit the Garbage City and Cave Church.  They were so impressed by our descriptions of them that they wanted to see for themselves.  Although not part of our tour, Mito arranged their transportation and also had one of OAT representatives in Cairo accompany them on the trip.  That is another of the wonderful things we like about OAT – the trip leaders go above and beyond what you would normally expect.  The group really enjoyed this little side trip and hopefully, OAT will find a way to make it a permanent part of the itinerary – it truly is a unique part of Egypt and Cairo’s history.

We returned to the hotel to finish packing and get ready for our Farewell Dinner.  Where did the time go?  It seemed like just yesterday we were boarding our flight to Istanbul, and early tomorrow morning we will board another flight to Istanbul and then to the US.

We met for the last time in the Ambassador’s Lounge and talked about how wonderful this trip had been.  Mito had the results of our Covid PCR tests and we all were negative – so no one has to quarantine before heading home or on to their post-tour of Alexandria.  We then walked to the Italian restaurant in the hotel for our final meal together.  It was sad as we said goodbye to our new-found friends, but we feel certain we will see some of them again on future trips.  About half the group will not even go to bed tonight as they have to leave for the airport at midnight.  We are the lucky ones – we get to sleep until 4 AM!

4 AM is way too early, but we struggled out of bed and met our taxi at 5 AM to take us to the airport.  There was hardly any traffic on the road and were checked-in and through security by 7AM.  Our flight to Istanbul, which left at 8:30, was on time and we arrived in Istanbul about 12:30.  We had to go through an International Transfer Security checkpoint and then we headed to the gate for our flight to Chicago.  We again had to go through another security check, but this is normal for all flights headed to the US.  At 2:30 PM our flight took off and 11 hours later we landed in Chicago.  The flight was uneventful, but the food was not exceptional.  After three weeks of spicy food, I would have happily settled for pasta and butter!  I have had my fill of Turkish and Egyptian food.  I think I got about 4 hours of sleep on the flight, but we were both very tired when we landed in Chicago.  I breezed through Global Entry – they are now using biometrics, so you do not need to scan your passport.  You just let the machine take your picture and take the printout to the customs agent after you get your luggage.  At least that is how it is supposed to work and it did for me.  But poor Bill, something happened when he used the machine and he ended up having to go through the regular passport control, so it took him about 15 minutes to reach baggage control.  Unfortunately, it took the baggage handlers longer than that to unload our plane.  And then they must have been following COVID protocols as our luggage coming off the conveyor belt was spaced 6 feet apart.  But we finally had our luggage rechecked and we were off the Terminal 1 for our last flight to Denver with about 40 minutes to spare.  This flight was also uneventful and by about 11:00 PM we were in the back of our shuttle car on our way home.  When we reached home, after 30+ hours of traveling, all we could do was fall into bed.  We would deal with luggage and the house tomorrow. 

It was a fabulous trip with a great trip leader and wonderful traveling companions.  The wonders of Ancient Egypt were unbelievable – it truly was the trip of a lifetime.  After watching all the TV shows on Ancient Egypt, it was rewarding to see these magnificent structures up close and personal and to walk where pharaohs and kings walked 3000-4000 years ago.  The Egyptian people are warm and welcoming, and while security requirements were in place, we never felt threatened or insecure.  Egypt is doing everything it can to bring back its tourism – its economy is dependent upon it.  So, if you ever get the chance to visit Egypt, do not hesitate – go – you will not be disappointed!

Roman Fortress

Roman Tower

Mosaics on wall near Hanging Church

Mosaics on wall near Hanging Church

Hanging Church

Entrance to the Church

Mosaics inside Church

Inside the Hanging Church



Banner inside the Church

Baby that was just baptized

Student studying to be a tour guide

Everyone loves to take pictures

Bookstore along Fortress Wall

Bookstore along Fortress Wall

Church of St. Sergius

Crypt of St. Bashnouna

Inside Church of St. Sergius

Well where Mary, Joseph, and Jesus drank

Cavern where Holy Family stayed for 3 months

Cavern where Holy Family Stayed

Inside the church

National Museum of Egyptian Civilization

35,000 year old skeleton of young boy

Stela of King Qa'a-last king of 1st dynasty

Statue of King Thutmose III

Sphinx of King Amenemhat III

Senet board game

Hathor depicted as a cow

Tools and cosmetics used by early Egyptians

Boats used by early Egyptians

Plaque of Goddess Nut giving birth to Isis -
found near Dendera

Example of Coptic Art

Costumes and Jewelry worn by Egyptians

Entrance to the Mummy Room

Entrance to the Mummy Room

Lake near the Museum

Overlooking lake from Museum

The Citadel at night - our last glimpse of Egypt


Sunday, November 7, 2021

 

Day 14                 20 October 2021  Cairo – The Giza Pyramids and the Sphinx

The Pyramids of Giza (built by Khufu, Khafe, and Menkaure), located on the outskirts of Cairo, were built during the 4th Dynasty of the Old Kingdom.  Two of pyramids, Khufu and Khafe, are the largest built by the ancient Egyptians.  Today they stand as emblems of the ancient Egyptians.  Although we only think of these three pyramids at Giza, there are actually 9 pyramids located here – smaller satellite pyramids that were built for the kings’ wives.  And while most pictures of the pyramids appear to show them isolated in the desert, they now actually abut up to the southern suburbs of Cairo.  While these are the most famous, a total of 142 pyramids have been found so far in Egypt.

The Great Pyramid of Giza (4500 years old) was built by King Khufu (Cheops) around 2650 BCE.  About 2,500,000 stone blocks were used in the building of this pyramid, which took 20 years to complete, whose base is 754 feet long and stands 449 feet high.  It actually took the architect 8 years to plan the building.  And the French (with possibly too much time on their hands) figured out that the blocks from the Great Pyramid would create a wall 6’ high by 3’ wide that would encircle all of France!  Located on the eastern side are the three smaller pyramids of his wives or family members.  This is the only remaining wonder from the original 7 Wonders of the Ancient World.  It was also the tallest man-made structure in the world for more than 4,000 years.  Khufu’s father Sneferu established the standard for future pyramids with his Red Pyramid, with its above ground burial chambers, a mortuary temple, and a causeway leading down from a valley temple.  When his son built his own Great Pyramid, he included all these features.  Egyptologists speculate that round logs were placed in a row from the Nile to the pyramid site to help move the large blocks of stone.  Milk was also poured on the logs to keep them from being destroyed and also to help move the blocks more easily over the logs.  It is estimated that it took 100,000 men working daily for about 30 years to build the Great Pyramid.

In addition, the pyramids of Giza were linked to the Nile by a canal or causeway so that the body could be transported to its pyramid for burial.  Next to Khufu’s pyramid, archaeologists, in 1954, discovered King Khufu’s solar boat, the oldest and largest wooden boat discovered in Egypt.  Built around 4600 years ago, it is 138 feet long and weighs 20 tons.  The boat is believed to have been built to take Khufu to the afterlife.  In August 2021, the boat was painstakingly moved from its old Solar Boat Museum near Khufu’s pyramid to its new home in the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza.  Along either side of the causeway that leads from Khufu’s pyramid to the Sphinx is the mastaba cemetery.  Three of these beautifully decorated structures are open to the public (but we did not visit them).

The Second Pyramid was built by Khufu’s son Khafre (Kephen) around 2500 BCE and is located south-west of the Great Pyramid.  It measures 446 feet high and 707 feet meters long and is the second largest pyramid in Giza.  While it looks higher than his father’s pyramid, that is only because Khafre built his pyramid on a higher elevation than his fathers.  (When built his father’s pyramid was 483’ high, while Khafre’s was 471’.)  The pyramid was built with locally quarried limestone and then covered with white, polished Tura limestone from across the Nile.  On the top of the pyramid are the remains of the limestone.

The Third Pyramid was built by Menkaure (Mycerinus), the son of Khafre, and is located to the south west of the Great Pyramid.  It is the smallest of the three – 203 feet high.  Unlike the other two, granite slabs still cover the lower sides of the Pyramid.

The three pyramids are in perfect alignment with one another and face true north, as if to portray the three stars of Orion’s belt.

While we had visited the pyramids on previous trips, there was something new this time.  Archeologists are just now excavation the homes and temple of the workers who built the pyramids.  The newest excavations is just in front of Khufu’s pyramid.  Contrary to some who suggest the workers were just slaves, Egyptologists say there new excavations show that the pharaohs too very good care of the workers, providing them with housing, food, and a salary.

After viewing the pyramids, Bill and I decided to give camel riding one last try.  The first time we rode one, I was given a child’s saddle and I was so squished that I think the back saddle horn was pushing on the front one with my poor stomach squeezed between the two.  This time the saddle was bigger.  While the camel ride was okay and relatively smooth, the motion of the camel standing up from its kneeling position nearly threw me off the camel.  All I had to hang on to was a tiny piece of the reins.  And getting on was a chore – my legs are not as flexible as they once were and it took Bill and the camel driver to lift my leg over the saddle.  Getting off was much easier (once the camel was kneeling again) as all I had to do was slide one leg over the saddle and slide off.  I can now say that camel riding is finally (and forever) off my bucket list.

Located near the three pyramids is the colossal statue of the Great Sphinx of Giza.  A sphinx, which originated in Egypt, was a mythical creature with the body of a lion and most likely the head of a male human adorned with a headdress.  The Sphinx was carved from a single piece of limestone on the Giza Plateau.  It measures more than 240 feet long and is the world’s oldest known monumental sculpture.  It is believed by many archaeologists to have been built by Khafre to guard his pyramid.  Khafre was a sun worshipper, and many believe that it was carved in the shape of a lion (the symbol of the sun).  It may also have been a portrait of Khafre.  Khafre’s pyramid, sphinx, and Khafre’s Valley Temple in front of the sphinx, line up exactly to the rising and setting sun of the vernal and autumnal  equinox.  The temple in front of the sphinx had 12 columns with sculptures of Khafre.  Many believe it was built to help establish Khafre’s immortality.  The statue of Khafre from the Temple is now housed in the Egyptian Museum.

Just recently discovered was a 5th-dynasty cemetery near the Giza pyramids that contain burial shafts and tombs of top officials from that era.  It also uncovered a limestone statue from the Old Kingdom’s Fifth Dynasty (2465-2323 B.C.)  Within the cemetery were a pair of perfectly intact sarcophagi.  The men found inside the sarcophagi have been identified as members of the royal entourage, with their names and titles inscribed on the coffins.  One was judge, priest and court justice, while the other was the Chief of State and settlements coordinator.  Both had served as Purifier of the King.  Egyptologists are in agreement that the cultic worship during the Old Kingdom treated Pharaohs like conduits to the gods.  The job of the Purifier is believed to be the priest that prepared the pharaohs to enter sacred spaces of worship and to be worthy of the gods.

From the reliefs found on the sarcophagi, the duties of the Purifier included carrying statues of the gods, pouring holy water at the temple doors, and swinging incense, while other pictures depict figures playing music, singing and dancing.  While none of these seem to show the duties of a Purifier, Egyptologists have gleaned clues from several paintings that show the image of a Pharaoh being greeted by the gods Horus and Thoth, who pour water over the pharaoh’s head.  Many believe, although it has not yet been proven, that these images show the factual depictions of holy rites where a pair of priests wore masks of the gods to purify the Pharaoh by pouring water over him before the worship.  Perhaps the answer will be found as more artifacts from that era are discovered beneath the layers of sand that for centuries have protected the secrets of the ancient Egyptians.

Following our visit to the pyramids, we had lunch at the legendary Mena House Hotel in the shadow of the pyramids.  In addition to us, the hotel has been host to the likes of Winston Churchill, Charlton Heston, and Agatha Christie, who like us enjoyed looking across the beautiful gardens to Egypt’s iconic Pyramids.

After returning back to hotel, we rested for a while and then went up to a room where OAT had scheduled our Covid PCR tests for or return to the United States.  The test took about 5 minutes total and we will have the results tomorrow evening.  It was then time to rejoin our fellow travelers in the Ambassadors Lounge for more snacks (well really dinner) and drinks.  Do you see the pattern here?  Everyday we were at the hotel, it was snacks and drinks and lively conversation.  When we went on the ship, we just transferred everything to the ship's lounge.  A great way to end the day.  But we also had to start packing as tomorrow was our last day on the tour.

The Pyramids of Giza -- Khufu, Khafre, and
 (Menkure (L to R)

Khafre's Pyramid

Khufu's Pyramid

Menkaure's Pyramid with the remains of
smaller pyramids for his family

Now if I just don't drop it!

Maybe if I push hard enough it will move

Our OAT group in front of the pyramids

Okay-he goes another camel ride

Yeah - I didn't fall off

Sure I can pick it up!

See how strong I am -- Wheaties work

Bill also ate his Wheaties

You are a nice camel

Ready for the camel ride

Okay - this is now off my bucket list!!

Ruins of pyramid workers homes

More excavation of workers homes

Temple used by pyramid workers

The stone blocks used to build the Great Pyramid

Top of Khafre's Pyramid still has the limestone 
coating

Khufu's Solar Boat Museum

The Sphinx and Khafre's Pyramid

Cemetery with tombs and mastabas near the pyramids

Khafre's Valley Temple

Inside the Valley Temple

The sphinx

Lunch at the Marriott Mena House Resort

A beautiful view during lunch

Marriott Mena House Resort