6
July 2024 Connemara and the Kylemore
Abby
Today we continued
our exploration of Connemara with a visit to a sheep farm. I have to admit that I was not very enthusiastic
about this visit – we visited several sheep farms in Australia and New
Zealand. But it turned out to be one of
the best stops. The sheep farmer was
also a shearer and sheep dog trainer.
The sheep he raises are mountain sheep that he brings down every winter
as they would not survive in the harsh mountain conditions. In late spring after the shearing ends (around
the end of June) he lets them return to the mountains as by then the spring
lambs are strong enough to survive. There
was also a pen where the orphan lambs are kept.
They are hand fed until they are old enough to join the rest of the
herd. There was one poor lamb that kept
bleating for his mother – so sad.
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Dog Herding Sheep |
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Orphaned Lamb Bleating for its Mother |
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Shearing the Sheep |
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Shearing the Sheep |
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Sheep's Wool After Shearing |
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Mussel Farm |
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Orphan Lambs |
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Sheep Waiting to Move to the Mountain |
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Foxglove Wild Flower
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The farmer then
told us of the struggles the sheep farmers face and the fact that this may be a
dying trait as not many young people are willing to stay on the family farms
and continue the sheep farming traditions.
He shears all his sheep by hand and can do one sheep in about 5
minutes. We also had a demonstration of
how a sheep dog is trained to interact with both farmer and the sheep. It takes about 3 years to train a dog. It was amazing how far away from the trainer
the dogs could be and still understand the commands the man is giving
them. The farmer has a brother that does
help him when he is not working on the mussel farm he owns out in the water.
Leaving the
sheep farm we traveled to the Kylemore Abbey, built in 1868, on the peaceful
Kylemore Loch. The castle (as it was
referred to then) was built by a successful financier, Mitchell Henry, after
his bride Margaret, while on their honeymoon to Connemara in the mid 1840’s,
gushed over how beautiful the area was and how wonderful it would be to live
there. Mitchell heeded her words and and
in 1867 he began construction of the castle was built. He
not only wanted to show his love for his wife, but also to showcase what could
be achieved in the remote wilds of Connemara.
The couple then spent much of their time adding all the modern-day
innovations to the 70-room estate and expanding the gardens to include 21
heated glass greenhouses where they grew exotic fruits and vegetables. During the building process, Henry helped the
local community recover from the potato famine by hiring local workers and
providing homes and schooling to the local population.
Unfortunately, on
a visit to Egypt in 1874, Margaret contracted a fever and died. Broken hearted over her death, her husband
built his wife an elegant memorial, a neo-Gothic church nestled in the nearby
mountain. After her death, Mitchell
hardly spent much time at Kylemore. When
Mitchell died in 1910, he was buried next to his wife in the church.
In 1920 the 1,000 acre estate was gifted to the local
monastic order and became an Abbey for Benedictine Nuns who fled Belgium during
WWI. Surrounded by a beautiful 6-acre,
walled Victorian garden, the Abbey remains today as a working abbey. The Abby also has a partnership with the
University of Notre Dame that offers
unique opportunities for reflection, creativity, and learning, hosting a
variety of programs that enrich the Notre Dame community.
After eating
lunch at one of the Abbey’s cafes, we first walked around the beautiful
Victorian Gardens. The flowers were in
full bloom and the garden is flanked by woods and water on both sides. We next walked down along the lake to the
small Neo Gothic Chapel. Along the way
we saw the new dormitory for the Notre Dame students, a small waterfall and the
ruins of the old Boathouse. The Churchis
tower was under renovation, so we did not get a complete view of what the
exterior of the chapel looked like. The
inside seemed rather plain, but it has beautiful stained glass windows and
marble columns. Near the church was the mausoleum
where the couple are buried.
Back at the
Abbey we walked through some of the rooms in the on a self-guided tour. The rooms were as they were when Mitchell
Henry built the castle. We finished at
the gift shop where we tasted some Irish Crème that is made at the Abbey. It was delicious – it now be my go-to for
coffee.
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Beautiful Irish Countryside |
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Kylemore Abbey
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Kylemore Abby Sacred Heart Statue |
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Gardens
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Gardens |
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Gardens |
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Gardens |
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Gardens |
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Gardens |
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Waterfall near Church |
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Ruins of Boathouse
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Neo Gothic Church |
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Inside the Church |
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Stained Glass Windows |
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Marble Columns in Church |
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Cemetery Near Church
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Living Room of the Henry's Family
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Wedding Dress Worn by Henry's 3rd Daughter |
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Dining Room
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There are
several legends or fables surrounding Connemara and the Kylemore Estates.
One of the most popular legends in Connemara is the story of Grace O’Malley. She was a 16th century pirate queen, married to Donall O’Flaherty, one of the ferocious O’Flaherty clan in Connemara. She would terrorize any English ship that sailed into the waters around Connemara
· There is another story about Finn McCool
(remember him from Giant’s Causeway) and Cu Chulainn, another mythological figure
of Ireland. According to legend, the two
engaged in a battle in the mountains around Connemara. It was during one of those battles, that Cu
Chulainn picked up a massive stone and hurled it toward Finn. It missed Finn, but ended up at an unusual
angle on the grounds of the Kylemore Estate.
The stone looks like a traditional clothing iron and is called the
“Ironing Stone” or the “Smoothing Stone.”
To the local children it is a wishing stone.
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Ironing Stone |
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According to legend Finn McCool lives on one of
the mountains, known as “The Diamond,” which faces the Kylemore Abby from the
south. The mountain contains quartz
which sparkles when the sun hits it.
· Children love to tell the tale of a white horse
that emerges from the lake (or loch) in front of the Kylemore Abbey every seven
years. In 2022, Abbey workers were
certain that they had seen the horse, but most people believe that it is more
than likely to be wispy white clouds moving across the surface of the lake.
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And the last legend again revolves around Finn
McCool. High above the church is an unusual
rocky outcrop that is called “Leim na h’Elite” (The Deer’s Leap). As the story goes, Finn McCool’s horse Bran
were chasing an enchanted deer through the wilds of Connemara. Traveling at high speed, Finn noticed that
his horse was in danger as it was close to a rocky cliff. He called for Bran to stop and return to him,
but the horse was too involved with the chase that it did not hear him. When the deer leaped from the cliff, Bran
followed him into the lake. Neither were
ever seen again.
On the drive
back to the hotel, we stopped by a field where the locals had dug up some of
the peat bog to use as a source of heat in the winter. As this area is dotted with bogs, here is a
little more information on peat. You
didn’t know you were getting a history lesson today. Peat has been the centerpiece of rural life
for many centuries where it was used for heat.
The act of removing the peat from the bogs, called turf cutting, has
been immortalized in songs, paintings, and poems. However, now with all the emphasis on and
efforts to combat climate change, this may all change. While in Connemara you still see stacks of
peat drying in the sun before it is burned, Ireland is hoping to end this
practice.
Peat, a
saturated soil, is formed from the accumulation of decaying vegetation over
thousands of years. One of the
characteristics of peat is that it soaks up and stores huge amounts of
greenhouse gases, storing twice as much carbon as all the forests of the world
combined. Peat bogs account for 20% of
Irelands terrain and store more than a billion tons of carbon. Unfortunately, when this peat is cut from the
bogs and then burned, it releases those greenhouse gases into the air,
contributing around 6% of global greenhouse gas emissions. As a result, Ireland ranks as one of the top
European greenhouse gas emitters. The
government is now working to preserve the peatlands by ordering all commercial
turf-feed power plants to be closed. If
they are successful in preserving the bogs, peat will be like Ireland’s own
coral reefs – containing tons of flora, fauna, and history underneath its top
layer.
In addition,
peat is also a natural time capsule.
From the discoveries made in the peat bogs, Ireland has been able to
document some of its ecological and cultural history. One of the most remarkable discoveries has
been the well preserved bodies that have been found, thanks to the high acidity
in the soil and the cool temperatures of the bogs. So far 17 bodies have been found, some dating
back to 1000 B.C.E. We saw four in
Dublin’s National Museum, including the Oldcrogan Man dating back to between
362 and 175 B.C.E., that provided the first set of fingerprints known to
man. If you are ever lucky enough to
visit Dublin’s National Museum, you can view these four bog bodies.
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Piece of Peat |
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Peat Bog Where Peat has been Harvessted |
We made one
last stop on a hilltop overlooking Clifden Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. The coastline was beautiful, and Tom had
brought some Irish Creme so we could toast another wonderful day in
Ireland.
We also saw two
white Connemara ponies which are Ireland’s native horse breed although their
earlier origins most probably came from Scandinavia and Spain. As early as 795 AD the Vikings brought an
earlier version of the breed to Ireland, but it wasn’t until 1588 when the
Spanish Armada ran aground that the Connemara pony was formed. They
are known for their strong work ethic and friendly personality. Their ability
to adapt to the harsh conditions of the Connemara region resulted in a breed
with a muscular back, short, strong legs, and hard feet. They are also great jumpers and have won many
championships in competitive showjumping tournaments.
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Atlantic Coastline |
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Atlantic Coastline
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Atlantic Coastline |
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Connemara Ponies |
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Ruins of Clifden Castle |